HauntFun's Sewing Thread

[HauntFun]

So I'm going to be sewing clothes for Equestria Girls. This requires some pattern making skills on my part, which I've been learning, and I'm excited to apply that knowledge!

Update 2015 May 5:

2013 Rarity:
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First off, my patterns will need to be made from scratch, not adapted from Monster High patterns (which are the ones I'm currently most familiar with).

Here's a comparison of the two doll lines: Comparing Equestria Girls to Monster High Dolls

As you can see, Equestria Girls brings a whole new game to the pitch.

I'm excited and hope to turn out a basic muslin skirt and blouse pattern next week, which I will turn into a basic dress for you all to see.

For an idea of the work I do for Monster High dolls (this is using DGRequiem's Yukata pattern):

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It'll be a whiles away before I can make a yukata kimono for Equestria Girls, but I've already got some patterns reserved in the wings.

[lucarionme]

Do you have any tips for sewing tiny things like this? Do you machine or hand sew?

[HauntFun]

Do you have any tips for sewing tiny things like this? Do you machine or hand sew?

I hand sew, but machine sewing is possible for Monster High and Ever After Dolls. I suspect it's also possible for Equestria Girls, but some parts will be too delicate for anything except hand sewing (for instance, attaching sleeves and cuffs).

DGRequiem has some great tips here: http://requiemart.com/blog/doll-clothes/tips-for-the-beginner/ and http://requiemart.com/blog/doll-clothes/essential-sewing-supplies/

Otherwise it's a learned craft, but the fray block is essential to deal with fraying materials. The seam allowances are so tiny (1/8" during hand-sewing, or 1/4" during machine sewing and cut back to 1/8") that it's necessary. And one really must learn to sew hems 1/16" from the fold, whether by hand or by machine. Fortunately with fray block there is no need to do a double-fold when hemming.

I've thought about investing into one of those standing magnifying glasses available for embroidery and fine needlepoint. And a good light is pretty much necessary.

[lucarionme]

Ah, thanks! I was actually considering getting jeweler's magnifying goggles for such a thing!

[Griffin]

Those yukatas are beatiful! Wish you best of luck with the EqG patterns, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

[HauntFun]

Ah, thanks! I was actually considering getting jeweler's magnifying goggles for such a thing!

I just remembered—if you're machine-sewing, use tissue paper beneath your fabric so that it expands the surface area. This keeps your work from going into the feeder contraption. After sewing it's easy to rip the tissue paper away.


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[HauntFun]

Those yukatas are beatiful! Wish you best of luck with the EqG patterns, I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

Thanks, Griffin!


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[aintnobuffalo]

I'm also excited to see some clothes for Equestria Girls! I bet coming up with a whole new pattern is a challenge!

[HauntFun]

I'm also excited to see some clothes for Equestria Girls! I bet coming up with a whole new pattern is a challenge!

It is! To give an idea of what it takes for simple patterns (like, say, the most basic pencil skirt, or the most basic blouse):

Because this is my first pattern, I had to take 40 different measurements of the doll (a 2013 Rarity, because her palm is bigger than that of later dolls; a blouse that fits her will fit the other dolls). I used ribbon and a marker; measure with the ribbon, mark the end of the measurement, then apply it to a ruler to figure out the length. This really only has to be done once for everything else.

Then I use maths and graph paper to figure out the pattern block from her measurements. So the pencil skirt takes the waist circumference, waist to knee, waist to hip, hip circumference measurements and divides/adds/etc to get the shape. I use the slightest curve on my French curve to make the side curve.

The pencil skirt block consists of a back panel (there will be two in the finished design) and one front panel.

Then I transfer the block to tracing paper and add 5/8" seam/fitting allowance. This will be scaled back after fitting to 1/8" seams.

Then comes the fun part, which is transferring the pattern from the tracing paper to fabric, and cutting it out. Quadrants divide the skirt up for consistent fitting. Pin the thing together, and pop Rarity in, then smooth material and create tiny, tiny folds to represent darts.

Do this for one half of the garment, then unpin and reflect those changes in the other half. I then baste everything together, closing darts as well, and do a second fitting to make sure things are correct ("measure twice, cut once").

Then take the fitting garment apart and cut out the darts. Using tracing paper, create the final pattern for the pencil skirt, which now includes the darts. In a bit I'll add in seam allowance and ease (basically extra length) so that a closure can be added to the back. Sew up a version in something cheap like the muslin you probably used for the fitting, and test it again.

Now you have a final pattern.

And this is something you do for every pattern you draft. It's harder when you're drafting and have to create new formulas to create the initial pattern block. And of course, the more pieces are involved, the harder it is to do the fitting. (A blouse on such a small doll is going to be fun to fit.)

Some clothing of course does not require this amount of detail, such as dirndl skirts (basically gathered rectangles) and circle skirts. But for anything that's fitted, like a blouse or some skirts, suits and shirts, etc., you need pattern drafting.

I hope that wasn't too boring. But yeah, a lot goes into patterns. I hope to sell patterns alongside clothing too, so people can make their own EqG clothing!

[HauntFun]

Here's what I have so far (seam allowance needs to be added), counter-clockwise starting from the graph paper:

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- Initial pattern draft (graph paper)
- Tracing paper fitting patterns, cut out
- Fitting fabric after second fitting and darts cut out
- Final skirt block (no seam allowances)

I want to not only do a pencil skirt, but also modify this pattern to make a fuller skirt, then sew them up for next week. The blouse is going to take more time, and I have business class homework to return to so—bye for now!

[Uninu]

Looking great so far! Good luck with the blouse, drafting a pattern for those always takes time but is really rewarding when it goes right.

[HauntFun]

Looking great so far! Good luck with the blouse, drafting a pattern for those always takes time but is really rewarding when it goes right.

Indeed it does. I've only just finished the first fitting of the bodice, which has thus far resulted in the following block:

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As you can see, the block draft on the tracing paper after fitting indicates a need to enlarge the arm holes so that Rarity's somewhat spread fingers can get through. This sort of thing is probably why recent EqG's have fingers all together, Barbie-like.

I put together a fuller skirt rather than the pencil skirt:

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And it needed some adjusting down. But essentially it can be cut to a much more fun mini-skirt (the full skirt without embellishments looks like something business-formal), of which the near-final pattern is sewn here:

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The next part is the sleeves which will be very fun on such thin arms. Most likely I'll need to use a slip stitch to complete the arms, even on a short-sleeved shirt.

After I finish the shirt/blouse, I'll get some solids I'm going to try for Rarity's signature look. And then I'll release the pattern for free, because these are really quite simple, relatively speaking. The only tough part is the velcro on the back, as the only truly thin velcro I've had to import from Thailand, but small snaps can be used instead.

One thing that is different about EqGs—it's not as good to partially seam the back of dresses/shirts because people aren't about to take off their feet in the case of the older girls. So the full length of the opening must be fastenings.

All this is to say: progress is being made!

[HauntFun]

Bodice is fully fitted. Sleeves are less so. This is the first time I've ever seen a sleeve where the palm was larger than the bicep; hence the sleeve needs to flare out. I'm working on a new version of this shirt, which will be a one-piece design. Here is the prototype, demonstrating the need for flared sleeves.

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I'll make another longer shirt out of muslin and finalize the pattern, then apply it to a light blue fabric I was thinking about... and then there will be a final result a little early

For the curious, the pattern looks like this after being cut out of fabric:

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Imagine the sleeves more flared, and you have an idea of what's coming up

[Akemi-chan]

Awesome work with the patter making!  It seems so daunting O_o

[HauntFun]

Awesome work with the patter making!  It seems so daunting O_o

Thanks! It feels a bit daunting but after a while it is just maths. And for small dolls, fractions. Lots and lots of fractions, at least in imperial. I'd have an easier time in metric, I suspect, and may do future patterns in metric if I can find metric rule paper. (Or even if I can't. I've got straight edges and things.)