Apoxie tips and tricks?

[Maniah]

Despite the Godzilla WIP I posted, I'm new to working with apoxie. I would love to hear your tips and tricks for working with it. I'm of the mind that I would benefit greatly from a Dremmel rotory tool to detail it when it drys but I have to wait till after may for pony purchases.

Anyway. Tips and tricks! Please?

[puuush]

Here is my apoxie knowledge (so far):
1. Don't start if you don't have a two hour timeframe - or the curing time might stress you out. lol.
2. Make sure you don't cross-contaminate the parts. Use right hand for part one and left hand for part two (or vice versa)
3. Use gloves for mixing as it might give you a skin condition. After mixing it should be fine.
4. Use it right away after mixing for smooth parts.
5. For things with structure like feathers and so on, let it sit for 15-30 minutes as it starts to cure.
6. Use water to smooth it.
7. For smooth but still structured sculpting (again like feathers) use oil or lotion.
8. Let cure thoroughly
9. If sculpting on sculpted parts, rough them up with sandpaper as it helps the apoxie stick.
10. better mix too little than too much. Apoxie is expensive.

That's about everything I can think of right now. Have fuuuuuun!

[Firebyrd]

You can use a bit of oil on your skin so that it doesn't stick to you as much.  I've tried emu oil and lanolin, but I'm sure there are others you can use successfully.

[creampuf]

Baby powder works too for keeping the sticky off of you.

no matter what you use, make sure you wash the sculpting before you paint as oil and lotion and powder will repel paint.

[Maniah]

Hmm. I'll have to try the lotion or oil thing. I think I had read somewhere that vaseline works good too. I have tried just water, but no matter what I do, the clay always seems to be too sticky.

I have tried tips the website has, putting it in the fridge for a bit.. But still.. Sticky. 

I seem to have a hard time getting good details with it due to how it sticks to the tools. Ill have to try the oil/vaseline/lotion though.

When it comes to some details or smoothing stuff down, I have noticed that sandpaper just doesn't seem to cut it.. Has anyone used special tools for refining details when the apoxie has hardened? Ive looked into buying a dremmel rotory tool, one with changeable bits for sanding and buffing and cutting and engraving and stuff, but I haven't been able to afford one.

[carlabarla]

There's are good tips I'm going to make my first pair of wigs soon this will be helpful :3

[Firebyrd]

Hmm. I'll have to try the lotion or oil thing. I think I had read somewhere that vaseline works good too. I have tried just water, but no matter what I do, the clay always seems to be too sticky.

I have tried tips the website has, putting it in the fridge for a bit.. But still.. Sticky. 

I seem to have a hard time getting good details with it due to how it sticks to the tools. Ill have to try the oil/vaseline/lotion though.

When it comes to some details or smoothing stuff down, I have noticed that sandpaper just doesn't seem to cut it.. Has anyone used special tools for refining details when the apoxie has hardened? Ive looked into buying a dremmel rotory tool, one with changeable bits for sanding and buffing and cutting and engraving and stuff, but I haven't been able to afford one.

If you've got a pretty new batch, it just stays sticky for a while after you've mixed it.  Try letting it sit for a half hour before trying to work with it and see how that goes.  As it gets older, you'll have to wait less and less.

[Diamond]

You can use a bit of oil on your skin so that it doesn't stick to you as much.  I've tried emu oil and lanolin, but I'm sure there are others you can use successfully.

I would not recommend this as you can affect the long term adhesion of the product.

You can also buy the smooth on product Aves sells, it is beyond super.  You can also use rubbing or denatured alcohol to smooth.  Gives a smoother finish then water.  You can also use the alcohol to make a really thin version to fill holes and make details.  The biggest thing I have found is allowing it to set a bit and then it takes detail quite well.  Some colors are more sticky then others bye the bye.

As to a dermel they are great but in pony customizing not as needed.  Just do not over do your work and it is easier enough to sand to do most things.

The only tool I would recommend is Carbine Scrapers, they take off seams as well as allow you to detail the apoxie.  They are available from Rio Rondo a model horse supplier.   http://riorondo.com/

[ZarineBashire]

I find that lotion works a million times better for smoothing than water does. The only thing you need to do is make sure you wash the sculpted bits after they are hardened as the paint won't stick to lotion. Also wipe up any apoxie residue that's on the pony plastic after you are done sculpting. it can be a bit of a pain to get off after it has cured.

[Maniah]

O.O the carbide thingys website scares me! They warn not to expose to gamma radiation or it can become radioactive! Scary! Lol

[okiegurl1981]

I use hand lotion to smooth out the clay.  Water just made it too sticky for me.  If I'm sulpting anything that needs to "stand up" like skirts, I let it sit for about 20 mins.  It'll stiffen up a bit and hold it's shape and detail better.  I have a dremel, but to be honest, I don't use it much for sanding.  I just use a 320 grit sandpaper.  I make sure I smooth as much as I can before  the clay cures, so I have that much less to sand.  I always mix a little less that what I think I'll need.  I can always mix more.  Apoxie is expensive and I try not to waste it if I can. 

Oh, and *shamless plug* I made a short youtube video discussing some tips on using apoxie clay.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sF9s--daao