The MLP Arena
Creativity => Customs => Topic started by: Sunshine on January 17, 2013, 12:52:16 PM
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I know each customizer is an artist, and artists have their own tips and tricks and secrets they'd rather not share...
But I really would love if someone could help me out with one, big, thing that I've always wanted to learn how to do...
Does anyone have any advice on painting custom symbols that look like REAL mlp symbols? I mean, the real ones were like "silk screened" kinda on, right? Like a rolling paint over a stencil... is that basically what it comes down to? My free-hand skills will of course have to improve to get the kinds of details that some of the symbols have on them, but... I mean... I just don't know how to paint a symbol that doesn't look like a giant painted symbol.
Any advice on what type of paint (brand, thinned out, mixed with, etc), brush, technique? I've got a Baby Tiddlywinks (NBBE) who's absolutely adorable, but unfortunately has huge blue ink marks all over, and I wanted to customize her, and instead of making a completely OC, I was hoping to kind of make a "real" MLP type custom...
I just need some help? Also, what's the best way to not make my base coat of paint on the body look so... "painted"... ?
Thank you for anything you can share with me!!
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When in doubt you can use a stencil too! I've used a stencil that I cut out to get the same shape over and over it saved a lot of the headache of trying to draw the same shape repeatedly. The best advice is to thin your paint and make use of layers to get a good coat without streaks or brush strokes. I've found that sometimes painting a base colour is fun too then you get a unique outline outside the symbol you've painted and it sometimes helps make the symbol pop out better on the pony...
This one used a stencil and lots of thin layers
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This one is free hand but with a base coat of white then I painted metallic purple blue and green before I added the glitter.
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I hope that helped but pratice and experimentation are always the best learning tools!
I forgot to address the 'shiny' issue the best matte finish we've all found is called testors dullcote it's in an aresol can that you can buy at Micheals or other craft supply chains. I leaves almost no sheen left on the pony but can seal a full body repaint to look like it started that colour. If I'm looking for shine inthe symbols I seal with gloss like in the glitter application I mix glitter in the gloss and layer on. for symbols I want matte i use the dullcote spray.
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For symbols I've been having luck with thin coats and gently sanding down any rough edges with ultra fine. I use acrylic, higher quality is better but you don't need to break your bank on them. I thin it down with acrylic medium and use a wet brush. A good brush is the most valuable tool. I'll sometimes trim them down a bit to get them to fit my needs (and because cheap brushes will get frustrating loose hairs- but I don't feel bad about hacking up a cheap brush)
That's what I do in FBRs too, thin the paint with acrylic medium, multiple layers, sand down any roughness, then finish it off with clear medium and sand it till it's all glossy. Practice really does make perfect, and I feel I'm improving with each and every paintjob. I mix the body colour in a batch so if I have to touch up I can do it easily enough and not worry about colour matching. Toothpicks are good disposable paint mixing tools- using them instead of your brush to mix a colour is worth it.
Try to paint from lightest to darkest whenever possible, because it's a bitch to try and cover dark.
Some people have had great success with decal paper (also called waterslide transfer paper) and printing out properly scaled designs. It's way up there on my list of things I'd dearly love to try but just can't justify the materials expense on right now. And matching colours if you're doing replicas is likely a bit trickier since something is always lost in translation from computer to printer to real life. However. It may be an avenue worth exploring.
I strongly encourage you to go ahead and take chances, make mistakes, and get messy. Exploration of methods is so much fun.
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One of the other things I do is to draw the design a few times on a small notepad to help determine butt placement to see if it's going to be too big or too small then you can adjust the design to allow for details. I also second a GREAT brush is the best tool. I say replace them often becasue as soon as the hairs/bristles start to fray or spread apart they are done.
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OMG She's beautiful! I want a Canada pony!!
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Good advice, I found it very helpful, too.
One question, though...Carnation, what do you mean by sand exactly? Like sand paper, or some other thing?
*edit* Also, does anyone have an opinion of the Krylon sealant? That's the stuff I have.
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I've tried the Krylon sealant and it left my ponies super sticky. I wouldn't use it. For a true matte sealant I use Testors Dullcote. I use an airbrush to do my full body repaints with, but before I got that, I used makeup sponges. They're great because they don't leave brush strokes in the paint! :D For glitter symbols, I'll paint a layer of just plain acrylic paint that matches the color of the glitter I'll be using, then do a layer of metallic paint in the same color as the glitter (with the base color of plain acrylic I don't have to do one million layers with the metallic paint), then I'll mix the glitter right into some glossy sealant, and paint it on.
I've used stencils for symbols before. My G3 Styling Firefly's symbol was done using a homemade stencil. Basically, I sketched out the lighting bolt on paper, covered the front and back with clear shipping tape, and then cut out the symbol with an xacto knife. Tah-dah! Instant stencil, and because it was made from paper, it bent with the pony's curves! I held it in place with painter's tape, and used a pencil to sketch the symbol on the pony.
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I'll second what everyone else has said about brushes. A good quality brush is your best tool. I usually sketch out the design on paper first, to make sure it looks right, and I can get the placement right on the pony. Then, I'll either lightly sketch it on the pony with pencil, or take some tracing paper, sketch the symbol out, flip the paper over and trace it, then place it on the pony and go back over the symbol again. Doing this does like a carbon copy on the pony, so I have a guide to paint it. This method is really great when doing a symbol on both sides like the G1's had. Thin out your paints, and work in several thin layers, and be sure to let each layer dry before doing another.
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Wow - thank you all SO Much for all the great advice... I'm SO excited to get started on my next custom now with all these new tricks...
And oh, my, gosh - the customs you are showing me look absolutely factory done! They are simply amazing!!
Can I go off topic and ask you okiegirl - how many hanks of hair did it take to rehair the G3 Styling pony?
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Wow - thank you all SO Much for all the great advice... I'm SO excited to get started on my next custom now with all these new tricks...
And oh, my, gosh - the customs you are showing me look absolutely factory done! They are simply amazing!!
Can I go off topic and ask you okiegirl - how many hanks of hair did it take to rehair the G3 Styling pony?
you are welcome!
Those stylin ponies used to take up to 6 hanks of hair but that all depends on how much you get in a dollyhair bag now....
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I would also like to thank you the people posting here, I never thought of sanding a symbol!
*puts on note-taking hat*
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I'm no painting/drawing talent. In the past, when I wanted identical symbols on both sides of the pony, I drew or printed symbols (mirrored!) and went over the outlines with a soft, gray drawing pencil, then rubbed it onto the pony. It gives a light outline that you can then paint over.
I don't use this 'technique' anymore, but it helped me a lot getting used to painting on ponies in my early days :)
Also: decent quality paint helps, as does patience. If something does not work today, try again tomorrow. Some days just don't seem right for painting.
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I've been able to use Krylon sealant, but only with a VERY VERY VERY LIGHT coating, so light that it probably doesn't do anything to protect your pony. I've tried putting like a regular amount on but like okiegurl said it leaves your pony super sticky. I've been looking around for Testors ever since.
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Good advice, I found it very helpful, too.
One question, though...Carnation, what do you mean by sand exactly? Like sand paper, or some other thing?
*edit* Also, does anyone have an opinion of the Krylon sealant? That's the stuff I have.
Over the paint I use sanding film I picked up from my local hobby shop, they do lots of scale model railroads and such. Anyways. It's an assortment pack of small plastic sheets and measured in microns, from 44 all the way down to .5 The ultra fine only has the slightest bit of roughness and doesn't feel like sandpaper at all. Best 10$ investment ever. The "roughest" sandpaper I use (not including when I have to scrap everything and start over) is 600g wet/dry, and that's only for body prep.
Don't apply any actual pressure to your piece when doing fine sanding, the film does all the work. Go too rough and whoops! Big ol' scuff. You just want to glide it over until it's nice and smooth.
High quality paints put up with wet sanding a lot better than the cheap stuff- cheapy paint comes right off with water actually.
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I don't have anything to add, but good luck with your pony!
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Over the paint I use sanding film I picked up from my local hobby shop, they do lots of scale model railroads and such. Anyways. It's an assortment pack of small plastic sheets and measured in microns, from 44 all the way down to .5 The ultra fine only has the slightest bit of roughness and doesn't feel like sandpaper at all. Best 10$ investment ever. The "roughest" sandpaper I use (not including when I have to scrap everything and start over) is 600g wet/dry, and that's only for body prep.
High quality paints put up with wet sanding a lot better than the cheap stuff- cheapy paint comes right off with water actually.
Alright, I'll try to see if my Michael's has something like that.
I have Liquitex (not bought just for ponies--if I had, I wouldn't have gotten heavy body) and I have flow-aid. I have been putting off painting my ponies as I am having clay-sanding issues, so I have yet to see if this works.
I do have two cheapy Martha Stewart metalics, though. Does anyone know a good brand that has glittery/metallic paints?
My dad has some Dullcote gloss spray...is that usually a no-no? I can just pick up the matte next time I'm at the store, but I'm just wondering.
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okiegirl - how many hanks of hair did it take to rehair the G3 Styling pony?
I used 6 uncut hanks of hair.
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This thread is awesome...
I'm awaiting some DH (my first batch ever, fingers crossed!) and I have a pony waiting for everything new. I can't wait to try this on her.
I do have another question... I don't know if it'll get answered because it's not in the first page but...
Any advice on dying bodies? Do I need to remove all their eye paint as well as symbol before doing it?
Thanks!
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Alright, I'll try to see if my Michael's has something like that.
I have Liquitex (not bought just for ponies--if I had, I wouldn't have gotten heavy body) and I have flow-aid. I have been putting off painting my ponies as I am having clay-sanding issues, so I have yet to see if this works.
I do have two cheapy Martha Stewart metalics, though. Does anyone know a good brand that has glittery/metallic paints?
My dad has some Dullcote gloss spray...is that usually a no-no? I can just pick up the matte next time I'm at the store, but I'm just wondering.
If you go to your local art shop they should have a decent selection of artist grade acrylics in metallic. I think some places also carry shimmer pigments you can mix directly into the paint too. I'm not really sure what to tell you to look for or where to look, since I don't know what would be available to you locally, but I do strongly suggest going out there and just looking.
If you can't find sanding film locally, it's available on eBay as well for pretty much the same price. This is the film I use:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MODELERS-MICRO-SANDING-FILM-K-S-5-Sheet-Assortment-/400240170490?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item5d302c55fa
What issues with clay sanding are you having?
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Any advice on dying bodies? Do I need to remove all their eye paint as well as symbol before doing it?
If you plan on having a different symbol than the original pony, then yes, definitely remove the symbol first. I once dyed a pony while keeping the symbol, and when I went to remove it, the shape of the original symbol was still there because the dye couldn't go through it.
As for the eyes, I imagine that the same thing would happen. Please note that, when dying ponies, the color bleeds through the paint after you seal it, especially with lighter colors and darker dyes. So, I think it may be better to keep the original eyes for that sort of custom.
I've never had success in dying a G3 -- I'd imagine that you would need the water to be at a rolling boil. I usually just nuke the water, which isn't hot enough for a G3... Works fine for a G1 or a thin plastic fakie, though! Also, if you're dying a G4, the body and head will likely have a lot of mismatch due to the different materials they're made out of.
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I did a youtube tutorial on dying ponies: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGiYSk_d6A8
But yes, you'll want to remove the symbol and prbly the eyes before you dye them.
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If you go to your local art shop they should have a decent selection of artist grade acrylics in metallic. I think some places also carry shimmer pigments you can mix directly into the paint too. I'm not really sure what to tell you to look for or where to look, since I don't know what would be available to you locally, but I do strongly suggest going out there and just looking.
If you can't find sanding film locally, it's available on eBay as well for pretty much the same price. This is the film I use:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MODELERS-MICRO-SANDING-FILM-K-S-5-Sheet-Assortment-/400240170490?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item5d302c55fa
What issues with clay sanding are you having?
Thanks for the clarification with the sanding film.
Now I'm getting slightly off-topic, but the clay sanding issues I'm having are do to inexperience. I just don't quite know the right technique. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it, though. ;)
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Any advice on dying bodies? Do I need to remove all their eye paint as well as symbol before doing it?
If you plan on having a different symbol than the original pony, then yes, definitely remove the symbol first. I once dyed a pony while keeping the symbol, and when I went to remove it, the shape of the original symbol was still there because the dye couldn't go through it.
As for the eyes, I imagine that the same thing would happen. Please note that, when dying ponies, the color bleeds through the paint after you seal it, especially with lighter colors and darker dyes. So, I think it may be better to keep the original eyes for that sort of custom.
I've never had success in dying a G3 -- I'd imagine that you would need the water to be at a rolling boil. I usually just nuke the water, which isn't hot enough for a G3... Works fine for a G1 or a thin plastic fakie, though! Also, if you're dying a G4, the body and head will likely have a lot of mismatch due to the different materials they're made out of.
I did a youtube tutorial on dying ponies: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGiYSk_d6A8
But yes, you'll want to remove the symbol and prbly the eyes before you dye them.
Great! Wow thanks so much for all the advice. I just got a G3 Sunny Daze who is certainly custom bait, as well as a G1 Baby Tiddlywinks and think I -might- try to dye them... and then, it's on to painting some symbols! I haven't had time to even start on them yet, but I really appreciate all this info!
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This thread is great. I'd never heard of microfilm before.
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This thread is great. I'd never heard of microfilm before.
No joke, I have nothing to contribute, but I'm definitely picking up tips!
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I will post to add I don't recommend tattooing because you do get a very thin sheen/seal and it is much more noticeable than painting straight on.
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What I have probably has been said, but thin your paint. Multiple layers may be more tedious but it is SO worth it in the end to get neat, factory like symbols. I usually end up painting in something similar to the fetal position when I do customs because working small means being close with me. Make sure you have a comfy workspace with everything you need! Rehairing is a good thing to do when you're sitting watching TV too, it becomes an unconscious thing and suddenly your pony is done!
And make sure (especially when dying a pony) to wash all the acetone off. If there is still some left on the pony (same goes for glue) the dye won't come out even. I suggest using Rit brand dyes in the powdered form. Boil some water, add some of the powder and stir, then let the pony sit in there for a while and rinse her off when you're done!
Best of luck!
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This seems so cool! Sadly I don't know if all these supplies are available over here...
I really wanna make a custom, but shipping from dollyhair.com is way too expensive yet I don't know where to get doll hair from! Anyone knows if Art Friend or Singapore sells these stuff?
Thanks!
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This seems so cool! Sadly I don't know if all these supplies are available over here...
I really wanna make a custom, but shipping from dollyhair.com is way too expensive yet I don't know where to get doll hair from! Anyone knows if Art Friend or Singapore sells these stuff?
Thanks!
I know sometimes you can get... they are like hair extensions for kids at like dollar stores and the like. The hair is harder to work with and the colors aren't great, but in a pinch or for a specific project they work ok. Also there is a dollyhair trade thread here in the customs forum, you could try to find someone closer to you who could trade/sell.
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I really appreciate all the info on painting...
Here's my personal update...
I can't paint with tiny brushes... my hands are NOT steady... the best thing I can do is use a paint marker and seal seal seal... I've only done one custom so far where I've painted her body and her symbol. I've done one where I've painted her symbol. That's it. I really dislike painting and think I'm horrible at it. I keep trying - thin pain, better paint, better paint brushes... I just can't get it to look factory...
The pony I made was a yellow pony from a Parasol, it took me probably 50 coats, some sanding, repainting, etc etc etc... and still in the photos she looks blotchy. Under normal indoor light she looks okay, but...
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(http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/SublimeSturgeonQueen/media/DSCN6496_zps5ea3653f.jpg.html)
How do you do such small, detailed symbols?
Like for example - look at Quackers. I want to paint that. I could paint the basic duck shape, but what the heck do I use to make the tiny, tiny fine lines in the umbrella and such?
I'm awful at this... :(
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Just keep practicing! That's really what I think the main "trick" to it is. Draw and/or paint the Quackers symbol on paper several times to get a feel for the lines. Try to work small, the same scale if possible.
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This thread has some awesome tips in it :)
I think with the painting as mentioned above me ^^ it is just practice. I am not practiced enough to make really smooth even FBRs, and I am not practiced enough to do tiny symbols. I am getting better at eyes though, as I've done a few recently. I like painting eyes. I am going off track here. :lookround:
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It also helps to lightly draw on the pony with pencil so then you can just fill in the sketch you did. And for details you can also draw with pencil right on the paint! Also don't load a brush with paint, just put paint on the very tip. Your female Tex looks great! You're better than you think you are so don't give up :)
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Thanks everyone for all the tips and support.
Yes everyone is right - practice practice practice!! I just am out of ideas too, lol... that's another issue.
I did try with my dutch Star Pony G3 remake to draw her star in pencil... omgosh even though I did it lightly, it took FOREVER for the yellow paint to cover it. That was an instance where I had to break down and use a paint pen, because of the crisp edges I needed.
I have purchased some higher quality small paintbrushes... I have some ideas but all of them need FBR and that took me so long, I just... haven't been motivated to try it again. I have two baits in the process of FBR - both are in the VERY early stages where it's a lot of "white" mixed into the paint so that it'll cover... but, I've been so busy lately that I just can't do it... lol
I just got my first custom from a user who I'd consider a true customizer (as many of you are! I'm just... not one, lol) - and she's LOVELY. She's also a yellow pony, the symbol is great... everything looks awesome, but it DID give me a little bit of hope because... it's NOT factory. I can see BARELY little brush strokes, or... one little thing a bit different than the next... and it's PERFECT that way. After seeing it in real life, and seeing how beautiful it is, I realize that even ponies that look factory really are works of art... and aren't factory... not to mention look at how many "factory errors" we see... so, what does the factory know anyway, lol. :)
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instead of drawing on with a graphite pencil, consider using a watercolour pencil crayon. You may need to sharpen it and dip it in water first, but the few trials I've done of that have left some nice clear marks on the pony. I seal in between body and symbol painting so it wipes off with water.
Also instead of going straight to yellow, starting with white and glazing the yellow over top.
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Hey you guys, where do you get good quality brushes? Even at JoAnns and Michael's I'm not satisfied.
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I order brushes from dickblick.com, fast shipping! It pays to order a few though as the shipping per item ratio gets better.
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Awesome, thank you! I'm tired of cheap brushes.