Disclaimer: This thread is a Work In Progress. All information compiled in this thread is based on feedback from the MLP Arena Community and information found on the internet. All tips/tricks/solutions are not foolproof. This thread is meant to inform fellow doll collectors. Please do not try any of the proposed remedies in this thread on a doll you love before confirming that the result works for you on a doll you don't love.This thread will be updated with new topics over time. If you have any suggestions or come across a problem you want help with, please post here! Please do not be afraid to correct me as I am just learning about many of these issues and how to fix them.
1. Plasticizer LeachingProblem - Plasticizer used in limbs made with soft plastic can migrate to the surface of various dolly parts. This is commonly seen on the legs of dolls produced in the 80s and on the vinyl faces of some dolls (barbie primarily?).
Solution - This problem can be temporarily resolved by giving your doll a good wash with a mild cleanser, like dish detergent, and warm water. Some other websites and forums suggest using the Formula 9-1-1 cleaner. I've never used it, so I cannot speak to its effectiveness over a simple, good, cleaning.
Suggestions to delay additional leaching include applying talcum powder to the affected areas following cleaning or to apply rubbing alcohol. I've also heard/read that rubbing alcohol can draw additional plasticizer out.
Regardless, this is a problem that will not go away. Dolls will have to be cleaned again on a periodic basis. Be aware that leaching plasticizer can ruin clothes. You should always wash your hands after handling a doll with leaching plasticizers. Do not let children play with these dolls.
2. Regrind/Age SpotsProblem - Light skin tone to white spots appear on the doll, primarily on the legs but also seen on some arms.
Solution - There is no stopping the development of age spots as this is primarily caused by the degradation of plastic. Make sure to clean your dolls and store them properly. It is possible to conceal these spots through several methods.
Painting -
Dyeing - This is suggested for Mod era dolls that have lost coloring. Dyeing is performed with RIT dyes and is described in detail at dollrestoration.com. The link is included in the resources section below. It may be possible to repair age spots with this method, however; this has not been tested yet.
Makeup Powder - Find a powder compact that matches your doll's skin tone. Rub the powder into the age spots with a powder puff. This method is said to work well on older barbies.
If you intend to sell a doll that has had age spots concealed, make sure to inform the buyer!
3. Black Dots/Cancer/MoldProblem - Plasticizer used in vintage dolls is being eaten by bacteria and fungi that the doll has been exposed to. This can be seen in the form of small black dots in the center of the age spots (these are the roots of the fungi) or much more widespread black spotting on the doll. It's likely that this damage is a result of the doll being improperly stored.
Solution - Thourougly clean the doll with a mild soap cleanser as a first step. The black dot can be removed with REMOVE-ZIT,
HOWEVER; this product is known to cause discoloration over time on some ponies and dolls (based on the coloring technique of plastic). In the case of dolls with age spots, this may not be much of a concern as the skin tone has already been lightened in these areas. It is HIGHLY recommended that this solution be tested on a spare doll first.
This product will also remove paint so be VERY careful near faces and any other painted features on your doll.
*To prevent this issue from reoccurring, make sure to store dolls in a space with less than 70% humidity. Periodically clean affected dolls. Fungi should not spread to other dolls.
4. Green EarThere are a few products that can be used to treat Green Ear. These products include REMOVE-ZIT, CLR, and benzoyl peroxide (found commonly in acne medications). Select one product to use for this process. In general, no matter the product, the solution remains the same.
Other Tools Needed:
- Q-Tips
- Make-up squares or cotton balls
- Plain dental floss & sewing needle
- Tweezers & small pair of needle nose pliers
- Small plastic container with snap lid
Carefully remove the dolls earrings & remove head from the body. (This is a must as greening is also inside the head, not just on the outside). Remove any old verdigris that could have built up in the head (this could be little, to a lot) using a q-tip dipped with the cleaning product of your choice. Swab the inside of the head until the Q-tip is clean.
Take a needle threaded with plain dental floss dipped your cleaning product and run back and forth through the doll's earring holes until the thread is clear. This helps to dissolve what's in the ear hole itself.
Once this is done, take a small piece of cotton ball or cut make-up squares, found in the cosmetics department. Cut into small swatches big enough to cover the affected area and dip in the cleaning product. Apply to the ear area like a patty on green areas. Set the doll head on a towel and change the patties once or twice a day for several days and up to as long as a month, depending on the level of greening.
After a few days to a week, what's left is pretty much what your stuck with, as far staining is concerned, though some dolls will continue to clear further with a longer treatment. REMEMBER, TIME TIME TIME! This process is time consuming but if you allow plenty of time you will be rewarded for your efforts. Most of the time this clears it so much it can't be seen.
Some people suggest putting the doll in limited sunlight. This has no effect on the process & will create the situation of fading the dolls body and face color.
Also be careful to limit getting cleaner on the hair or makeup during this process. Paint can be removed by these products.
After the doll has been treated, clean with mild soap and warm water, use safe pearl earrings (not metal!!!) or none at all.
NOTE -
This process does not work on MOD era dolls. Skin will turn white if these products are applied.5. Melt Marks/Crotch RotProblem - Indentations in the hard plastic portion of dolls, where a reaction between the hard plastic and soft vinyl has caused the plastic to melt. Often this creates "grooves" that are about the thickness of a soft vinyl doll leg.
Solution - Carefully trim the melted part away and then sand the area smooth with fine sandpaper.
For prevention of future melting, take a very thin cardboard and cut a circle the size of the hip. Cut a hole on the inside and a slit and then position the cardboard between the leg and the body to keep the vinyl leg from touching the plastc torso. Thick paper will also work.
Proper Doll Cleaning and StorageWhen done cleaning up your dolly, do not forget to store her properly! Many of these issues can be avoided with proper storage.
Always store dolls in a cool, dry room with no direct sunlight. Plastic boxes are not suggested because extra moisture and stale air can be trapped. Fabric boxes are ideal due to their breathing ability.
Make sure dolls aren't touching if you're worried about plastic melt. Acid free tissue is a good option for keeping dolls separated, though, if you have a plasticizer leaching problem, tissue may get stuck to your dolls. Boxes for individual storage can be found at the following website and come in Barbie, Ken and (vintage) Skipper sizes:
http://vintagedollplaza.com/shopping/web/t-BoxInfo.aspxOther Miscellaneous Tips and TricksOpening a Stuck Eye - Use a pencil eraser to push eyes open when there is no molded lash.
Reparing Scratched Acrylic Eyes - Paint eyes with a water-based acrylic gloss
Clothing Dye Transfer - To conceal existing clothing dye transfer, the best solution is to make a nude body suit out of lycre. For prevention, wrap the body of the doll in glad wrap.
ResourcesThe following websites have information that may provide additional help in the restoration, repair, and/or care of your doll:
http://dollrestoration.com/your_questions_answered.htm