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46
Arts & Crafts Corral / G4 Fancy Dress Tutorial!
« on: March 14, 2016, 02:18:07 PM »
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Hey guys!  I got a note about a picture I'd posted in another thread, featuring my custom G4 Wind Whistler wearing a fancy dress.  I'd been meaning to offer a pattern and tutorial for a while, so that was good motivation to finally do so!  :lol:  I really like making clothes and accessories for my G4's, and while a lot of the time I kind of wing it for little bits and bobs, I drafted a pattern for this dress (and variants) to make it easier on myself to make another one.

This is a very picture heavy tutorial, so everything has been subdivided into sections for those on slower connections.

A couple of notes:  This pattern is intended for brushable-sized G4's, and will work with either bent-leg, straight leg, or basic articulated bodies (the "action bodies" are a bit wider and won't fit the pattern).  I am a hobbyist at best when it comes to sewing, and I prefer to use a machine, so some of my stitches are pretty catawampus.  This pattern doesn't require a machine at all, and can be done by hand as well, it'll just take a bit longer to do.  :lol:  Some familiarity with sewing techniques is helpful, but I try to break down everything as best I can.  Additionally, some fabrics can stain ponies, so be careful with homemade clothing and accessories.

First up, here is the pattern:

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The variation I'll be demonstrating will use the top, shorter skirt, and overskirt patterns.  There is also a gown skirt included that can replace the other skirt pieces, or the top can be sewn by itself to make a shirt instead!

The finished item is still removable, but the velcro/fastener is on the underside of the pony instead of the top.

For this dress you will need:

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  • printed copy of above pattern
  • scraps of fabric (for this dress I used white knit material for the base skirt and a plum knit for the top and the overskirt)
  • lace or ribbon for the edges (optional but looks extra fancy)
  • doll/low pile adhesive velcro or closure of your choice (snaps would also work well)
  • thread, scissors, and needle or sewing machine
  • pony to model for you (I tend to keep an extra Cheerilee around just for trying clothes out on  :lol:)

Starting Out and Adding Lace
Spoiler
Start by cutting out your fabric pieces -- in this case, I am making a dress consisting of a top, shorter skirt, and underskirt, and I have cut out all three along a fold in the fabric, so I have a (hopefully) symmetrical piece like so:

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The first thing we're going to do is add all that frilly lace to each piece, which is also the most time-consuming part of this.  If you don't plan to add lace, feel free to finish the edges as you would like.

First, take your piece of fabric and lace and sew them, right sides together, as shown here:

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Then fold over the lace, with the seam pointing upward, and sew along the seam:

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When attached, your fabric and lace should look like this on the inside/wrong side:

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And this on the right side/outside:

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The overskirt follows the same steps, sewing the lace along the long, rounded part.

The top is trickier -- you will want to sew the lace to the sides and bottom, but not the rounded middle section:

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The long straight line along the bottom is our neckline, and the sides are the sleeves.  The part where I haven't attached lace is where the top will be joined to the skirt.  Additionally, you could finish that edge and make a top out of it (I have used this same pattern to make a pirate shirt for another pony).

After a ridiculous amount of time, you should have three pieces like shown in the below picture, and then we can move on to construction!

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Construction

Spoiler
There's a couple of things we need to do before we sew it all together.  First, take your overskirt, and fold it in half. 

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You'll want to sew a line from the top, forming a triangle by sewing to the edge:

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Once you're sure your stitches are even and it's nicely in half, you can clip the inside of the triangle (I like to use pinking shears):

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Your overskirt should look like this, with a pleat in the center:

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Next, we're working on the skirt base.  As you can see, the top of the skirt is longer than the part we're sewing it to.

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If you're doing a gown skirt or one layer of skirt, you can always do a pleat as shown above, but since we've got two layers, I like to do a gather instead.

Sew a long stitch along the top of your skirt (if you're sewing by hand, you'll want a basting stitch, and if by machine, a straight stitch set at about a 4 length).

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Knot the threads on one end, then start (gently!) pulling on one of the threads on the other side, until the fabric starts to gather:

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Gently move the gathers along the top of the skirt, and continue gathering until you've got about the same size for both pieces.

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Find the halfway point in both of your skirts and pin together, with the right side of the shorter skirt touching the WRONG side of the overskirt (so the right side of the overskirt is on top):

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Then do a long stitch to temporarily attach them to each other (see, terrible stitchwork!  :lol:)

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Stitch the right side of your skirts to the right side of your top, and then we're done with basic construction!

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Fasteners, and Dressing Your Pony

Spoiler
I really like to use adhesive low pile/doll Velcro for my fasteners, but you could also use sew-on Velcro or snaps, and they should work also. 

If using Velcro, you'll want two smaller pieces and one longer piece:

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On the outside/right side of the dress, at the corners of the top, you want to put two small pieces of Velcro:

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The corresponding pieces will go on the inside/wrong side, at the bottom of the top (if you are making a shirt only, you would attach these pieces as well, but skip the longer piece):

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One long piece will go on the outside/right side edge of the skirt:

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The other will go on the inside/wrong side of the other edge of the skirt:

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To dress your pony, take the whole piece and flop it on top, with the skirt towards the tail and the two top parts towards the head, one on either side of the neck:

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Holding both pony and dress with one hand, locate both pieces of Velcro on one side:

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Shove the long piece with Velcro in between the front legs:

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Wrap around, and press the other piece of Velcro against it, from the outside:

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Repeat this for the other leg, then attach the long pieces of Velcro to each other underneath.  You may need to do some slight adjustments of the dress so it sits right, but then you've completed your dress and dressed your pony!

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47
Lovely customs! Wow you have some great ideas--love seeing a custom of Tickle! But are they harder to re-hair since the plastic is so hard?

The heads are exactly the same as the normal G4 heads, so rehairing can use any process that you normally would.  The tails are a little trickier, but I do have a tutorial with pictures in the Customs section that shows how to disassemble them and give them new tails.

48
I thought I would weigh in my two cents on these guys, because while I absolutely love them personally, I can understand why so many people don't.  First of all, the box pictures are usually taken of the prototype -- this is pretty standard practice, not just with Hasbro, but with Mattel and other major toy manufacturers as well -- that's why the pictures online tend to be quite different from what you get sometimes.  They're hand painted, rehaired in-house etc. so in the worst case (like some recent G4 releases), the pictures of the ponies on the box end up looking far superior.  The articulated ponies themselves end up being not so nice (especially the hair quality), and overall come across as a very unfinished product.

That being said, if you like crafty stuff, customs, and/or dioramas, these guys are fantastic!  You can do very expressive things with the range of motion that you just can't normally.  Here are a couple of examples:

Here's a picture of my Coco Pommel with a custom I made of G1 Tickle -- Coco is the basic pony, not even any haircuts, but I made her a tie and restyled her hair with some paper roses, and to me she looks much cuter now.

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Here's a custom of G1 Wind Whistler with a full outfit I made for her.  The dress also works well to hide the joints if you're not a big fan of those.

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And here are two other customs that are finished but desperately need hair styling  :lol: - G1 Blueberry Baskets with a custom baskets (of blueberries) and my joint-dyeing test subject named Lynette. 

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To me, they feel like they have a lot more personality, but it takes more work than traditional ponies do also.  I can understand why many people don't seem to like them, but I feel like they offer a lot of promise.

49
Customs / Re: Do G4 ponies hold dye?
« on: February 26, 2016, 08:46:38 AM »
I've been doing some experimenting dyeing the legs only of the new articulated brushables, trying to dye the joints specifically, but the vinyl gets dyed as well.  The vinyl takes dye quite easily using Rit Dyemore and their instructions about dyeing buttons, Legos, etc. on their website using boiling water.  Within about a half hour, I achieved a very dark color on the vinyl.  However, if you want to do any painting + sealing on top of that, if you just dye and then paint and seal, you will get very very severe dye leech into the paint. 

You can stop the dye leech though -- you just have to do an acetone bath for it.  Take a small dish or container that won't melt when you put acetone into it (so no disposable plastic cups) and put your pony in.  You should see the dye start to wisp off in a kind of scary aura around the pony -- that's the excess dye being pulled out of the vinyl.  Be careful with the amount of time you let it sit in the acetone, as G4's can get kind of melty.  I'd suggest only about a minute or so, then pull the pony out and let it rest.  Repeat until the scary aura is mostly gone.

The only downside is that this will lighten/wash out the color of the dye job, but otherwise there's a chance that the dye can spread to other ponies or things from touching.

50
Customs / Re: Translucent Custom Question?
« on: February 04, 2016, 08:16:24 AM »
I would certainly think it's possible!  I've done a translucent custom before using Pearl Ex Pigments, so any sort of paint or material that isn't opaque should be fine.  It's important to try to stay in the same color group when you're trying to preserve transparency and not look like a "mud mixer" (to quote Bob Ross), so since Merry May is green, I would use either yellow, green, or blue stained glass paint.

51
Customs / Re: Articulated G4 Ponies Tutorial!
« on: February 03, 2016, 07:33:10 AM »
Thanks for the comments, guys!  They certainly look like magnets in the front legs, but I was never really able to tell.  If they are, they're very weak ones!

52
Pony Corral / Re: Articulated Ponies!!!
« on: February 02, 2016, 08:29:42 AM »
I noticed no one ended up posting more info about the interior workings and dismantling these guys, so I've posted some tutorials with lots of pictures over in the Customs Area.  The thread is here: Clicky!

53
Customs / Articulated G4 Ponies Tutorial!
« on: February 02, 2016, 08:27:49 AM »
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Hey guys!  I hope everyone is doing well!  I've been working on these guys for a bit, and wanted to share what I've learned.  Be warned, lots of pics ahead!

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I really love the articulated ponies (especially since I'm a sucker for dioramas, and they're so much more expressive with joints).  Here, you can see G1 -> G4 Tickle and Wind Whistler hanging out on a (not quite finished) diorama getting ready for a picnic!  :lol:

I've dismantled several different articulated ponies and taken lots of pictures, so the tutorial will be broken down into three major sections: Basic articulation (the non-"action" releases of Coco Pommel, Rainbow Dash, and Twilight Sparkle -- I have taken one of each apart, and they are very similar, so I will be showing only one off), Action ponies (the kicking, etc. releases of Rainbow Dash, Fluttershy, and Applejack -- this tutorial shows Rainbow Dash, but Fluttershy should be the same.  I have not touched Applejack, but I'm sure she's quite different), and Re-tailing (this shows off the modifications I had to make to give them a new tail, as well as showing off how I put in a new tail, though the method is very similar to how I normally give a custom a new tail anyway).  Each section is under a spoiler tag, as there are quite a few pictures!

A couple last notes and warnings: this is definitely more complicated than normal customizing, so if you are new to customizing I would suggest starting with a couple of basic ponies before moving on to this.  The methods to get these guys apart involve very sharp objects, so please be careful and don't hurt yourself!  Lastly, I don't recommend trying to dye these guys -- the head and main leg pieces (as well as the wings if applicable) are all the traditional vinyl, but the body pieces and the joints are hard plastic.  As such, what would work on one would not work on another.  Someone more familiar with dyeing vinyl/hard plastics may have more to say about that than I do, but this guide doesn't cover that.

Basic Articulation

Spoiler
These guys are a little misleading -- the screw at the bottom makes you think they are simply held together with that, but the body is thoroughly glued together in addition. 

  • Carefully remove head from body -- my preference here is to soak the whole pony in boiling water until the vinyl has softened enough that I can safely pull the head off.  This may also help to weaken the glue involved, but be careful not to leave in water for too long, since there are metal parts involved.  The neck plug is attached to the top half of the body:

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  • Unscrew the screw on the bottom and set aside (you will still want this).
  • Very delicately, use a sharp object like an X-Acto knife and start cutting along the seam lines on the sides of the body.  Under the tail, there is a long, flat seam, and it is easiest to start here.  There is a curved seam at the front that you will need to cut along as well, and depending on how thoroughly glued your pony is, you will also need to cut along the sides.  This is much easier to do with Coco Pommel than with the winged girls.  Gently cut deeper into these seam lines until you can wedge the pieces apart.  Here is an image of the body without appendages to give you an idea of where you want to cut:

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  • Try to gently separate the pieces.  Chances are good that once you open the body, pieces will go flying everywhere, so be careful!  Here's a shot of what should greet you when you remove the top:

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  • The tail is a bunch of cut hairs held together by a metal piece and lots of glue.  It is usually glued into the top half of the body, but it may have come loose and be easy to pull out.  If not, you can pull it out with a pair of hemostats (or dig it out in the case of big globs of glue).  This is a picture from Action Dash, but the tail is located in the same place on the basic ponies:

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  • If you've done accidental damage to the seams trying to pry the pieces apart (which is very easy to do), this is a good point to take some sandpaper to gently sand the edges of the seams.  I like to start with 400 grit, then take some 1000 grit to finish.  If you've got visible spots still where you've sanded, a matte topcoat spray is a huge help to make things look nice.
  • At this point, add a new tail following the re-tailing section (or this can be simply glued into place using your own method, but I'm not a fan of that so I don't cover it here).
  • Re-fit the appendage plugs into the appropriate places -- the legs slot into the bottom half of the body, whereas the wings (if present) slot into the top.  It's easiest to reassemble by having the lower body spread out on a hard surface, then taking the top and gently press it back into place.
  • Hold the whole mess together and rescrew to keep everything where it should be.  :lol:

Action Ponies

Spoiler
These guys are definitely more complicated than their basic counterparts!  Lots of tiny bits, so make sure you don't have critters around to steal tiny springs and things while you work.  :lol:

  • Carefully remove head from body -- my preference here is to soak the whole pony in boiling water until the vinyl has softened enough that I can safely pull the head off.  This may also help to weaken the glue involved, but be careful not to leave in water for too long, since there are metal parts involved.  The neck plug is attached to the top half of the body (shot of basic plug, but action plug is the same):

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  • Gently start working on the side seams -- there is a long seam on each side, a long seam on the back, and a curved seam on the front that will all need to be cut through.  When you've cut deep enough, you should be able to pry the pieces apart, but there are a bunch of tiny pieces, so be careful!  This should be the crazy sight that greets you:

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  • Let's take a look at those pieces a bit more: there are the legs (of course), a piece I like to call the table, one that kind of looks like an airplane with a spring attached to it, and a little j-shaped doodad:

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  • The tail is a bunch of cut hairs held together by a metal piece and lots of glue.  It is usually glued into the top half of the body, but it may have come loose and be easy to pull out.  If not, you can pull it out with a pair of hemostats (or dig it out in the case of big globs of glue).  This is a picture from Action Dash:

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  • If you've done accidental damage to the seams trying to pry the pieces apart (which is very easy to do), this is a good point to take some sandpaper to gently sand the edges of the seams.  I like to start with 400 grit, then take some 1000 grit to finish.  If you've got visible spots still where you've sanded, a matte topcoat spray is a huge help to make things look nice.
  • At this point, add a new tail following the re-tailing section (or this can be simply glued into place using your own method, but I'm not a fan of that so I don't cover it here).
  • At this point, you can reassemble everything as it was, but I modify the inside a bit by removing a couple of pieces.  This actually helps to disable the "action" aspect somewhat and let her be treated more as a plain articulated pony (though you will still notice some quirks of the "action" when she is assembled).  Set aside the spring and the j-shaped doodad, as they will not be reinserted.  Fit the airplane piece back into the bottom half of the body (there is a slot that it fits in in the back):

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    Then fit the table over it (there are peg slots for it as well):

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    The back leg posts fit in under the table, and the front legs fit around the front of the airplane:

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  • Reassembly will require glueing the top and bottom pieces together, so make sure you are 100% happy and that everything looks right before you do it.  There are some little pegs on the outer perimeter of the body that will temporarily hold it together, so I strongly suggest doing a test fit and making sure everything looks right (and the legs haven't been confused) before glueing.  I really like plastic cement for reassembly, because it actually melts the plastic a bit and you can use sandpaper to smooth out the seams quite a bit (or, if you get lucky, almost get rid of them!)

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Re-tailing Articulated Bodies

Spoiler
This actually covers part of my normal re-tailing method, but there are a few quirks specific to these bodies due to the strange shape and internal pieces.

  • If you're following along with one of the above guides, you should have a top body piece with no tail in it.  I like to take my hair, fold it in half, then add a zip tie.  Then, to hold the halves together, I add another zip tie.  For G4's, I like to use 2mm ones (I bought a bag of 1000 from Amazon for $5, so these guys will last forever!  :lol:)  The "top" of your tail would look like this:

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  • Cut the tails of the zip ties off, then prep your other supplies.  For this, I use a pair of hemostats, the tail, and my homemade re-tailing tool (it is a brass rod bent in half, then bent into a bit of a curve):

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  • Insert the re-tailing tool into the hole for the tail:

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  • Slide the closed end further through the hole, then insert your tail into the gap in the tool:

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  • Pull the tool back through the tail hole, dragging the tail with it:

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    Important note:The interior is very small, and the hole as well, so be careful how big you make your tail.  In my experience, the tails end up being a little thin, but there just isn't space for a thick, bushy tail.
  • Pull the tail through, then really cram the plastic zip tie part tightly against the interior, if you are re-tailing a basic articulated pony.  If you are retailing an action pony, you will probably need to pull it in further and fit the zip tied part up next to one of the wings, as space is even tighter here.

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  • If you're making a basic articulated pony, you will need to cut the back tab down somewhat to make room for the tail:

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  • Continue along with the appropriate section for reassembly!

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  • Alternatively, you could glue a new tail into place, but I'm not a fan of doing so, so I don't cover that in this tutorial.

54
Customs / Re: WiP Luna Moth G4 *update 01/18/16*
« on: January 19, 2016, 10:35:33 AM »
She is absolutely gorgeous!  You did a fantastic job, and those wings are totally drool-worthy!  :lol:

55
These are lovely!  As someone who has sewn tiny G4 dresses in the past, I totally understand the trouble you went to! :D 

Your designs are quite nice, and it seems like you've used felt for quite a few things, which is a great idea because you don't have to worry about finishing edges.  With the organza/tulle material though, do be careful about the edges, as some types can fray over time.   I can't wait to see what else you come up with. :)

56
People have mentioned that the Woodzeez, Calico Critters/Sylvanian Families, and Re-ment are a good size, but Playmobil is also really excellent!

I have a huge castle that I'd done a bunch of customizing with earlier this year -- here's one of the pictures I took:

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And if you're curious to see more pictures, the thread I started in Customs has a lot more:

http://mlparena.com/index.php/topic,365570.0.html

57
Pony Corral / Re: New Ponymania Brushables (Maud Pie Page 19)
« on: March 20, 2015, 08:10:08 AM »
Definitely getting rid of that dress, but I think Maud is super cute! :)

58
Customs / Re: So, glittery symbols
« on: March 18, 2015, 09:03:00 AM »
I've used two methods for glittery symbols before -- Folk Art makes a "paint" called Extreme Glitter, with a very fine glitter that is excellent for symbols.  The only bad thing is that it comes in a limited variety of colors, but it's very easy to apply.

I've also used Martha Stewart fine glitter before, which comes in a huge array of colors and finishes (neon, iridescent, and metallic).  Both the fine glitter and the Extreme Glitter are available at a bunch of different craft stores and online as well (Amazon sells pretty much all of the Martha Stewart glitters and a limited selection of Extreme Glitter paints, but you can also buy Folk Art products online directly in a much larger selection.  They also have a bunch of other paints and supplies you can buy there, like Ceramcoat, Mod Podge, and Gallery Glass).

59
Aww, thank you guys so much for the nice comments!  I'm really happy with how it's coming together still.  Sumire, that is such a lovely comment!  I love fancy dollhouses and when I was dreaming up ideas I definitely looked at a lot of customized dollhouses for inspiration!

60
Bump for progress update!

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