[Pics added] Good horse care/information sources? [Got some, thanks!]

[Pheasant]

After spending all week riding him, I purchased my first horse yesterday.   His name is Gus; he's a registered sorrel quarter horse gelding somewhere between the ages of twelve and fifteen - I won't know his actual age until I receive the papers, which are owned by a previous owner. Some friends of ours - his owners - brought him over on Sunday. I first rode him on on Tuesday, his owners, their horses and I went riding through the back of our property and up into the BLM hills for about four hours. By Thursday morning, he'd already caught onto my morning routine and stood by the paddock gate, waiting for me to let my fowl out and come visit. He's a remarkably calm and intelligent boy, he loves to work cattle. I can ride him with a saddle or bareback, and even throw ropes off him. I purchased both him and his tack, and once he gets over his upset about his other friends being taken back to their home, I'll start riding him again.
(Just to let you know,his halter is ONLY put on when I'm walking or riding him. Otherwise, it's off.)
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Anyways, while his previous owners gave me some basic information on caring for him, I'd like to do my own reading and learn more about horses. What are some good books or websites for horse care? I'm looking for resources with accurate, proven information for beginning horse owners - preferred diets, what not to feed him, etc. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[kaoskat]

I have no horse, therefore no care sites from me but CONGRATS!!!!!!! Pics???

[Katika]

"Horse care" can be a pretty broad topic and can get very in-depth...  I think you might be better served to start out by asking the specific questions you're curious about and receiving answers that way   (For example, I could talk your ear off for about three days about equine nutrition, but knowing that much about it isn't necessary or even relevant to the average horse owner)  How are you currently keeping him?  Is he boarded or at your house?  Is he stalled at times or out in the pasture all the time?  Do you know the timing for his routine farrier/veterinary care? 

If you're looking for a relatively all-inclusive beginner-ish guide to horse care, the USPC (United States Pony Club) Manuals are pretty good places to start.  They're designed for a younger audience, but are quite thorough.  Cherry Hill's Horsekeeping Almanac is also loaded with some pretty good information to help start you out.

My degree is in Animal Science, and I capstoned in equine management and am more than happy to help you if you have any specific questions you can't find the answer for (keep in mind; if you ask 10 horse people the "right way" to do something, you'll get 12 different answers ).  I'm sure that you'll be able to find advice easily here on these boards, though, as a lot of us here at the Arena are involved with horses

Congrats on your new boy!  Can't wait to see pictures!

[joce]

Google horse grooming supplies forum. Only horse forum I've stuck with and there is a ton of info.

  Good to board at least at first so if anything is blatantly wrong someone will catch it. (Friend thought it was cute he pony was rolling on his toes but he had foundered and that's not cute!).

Food varies in quality just like with dog food.

Horses wake up looking for ways to kill themselves. We have to do all but wrap them in bubble wrap to protect them. Anything you see thy can harm themselves on they will. Even things you can't see how they will harm themselves on lol!

 My vet told me years ago to not get them on a set schedule and make sure they always have water and its going to be rare to see colic. My friends horse colics at the drop of a hat when feed is late or its stressed. Knock on wood in almost twenty years never an issue.

Look into things like proper saddle fit. Makes a big difference.

Could talk about horse stuff for days!

[melodys_angel]

Horses will literally naturally try to kill themselves?! o.o I did not know this

I am of no help but it looks like you have some information <3  Congrats on your new boy ^^

[Katika]

lol, actually, it's quite the opposite. By nature, horses do everything in their power to NOT kill themselves.  That's what makes them dangerous animals as a whole - they're gigantic, strong, and *always* think something is getting ready to eat them.  They often act before thinking.

They are, however, relatively curious and incredibly accident-prone.  There's a saying in the horse world that "if a horse *could* possibly hurt itself, it will."  That pretty much sums it up.  They are especially "talented" at getting their legs hurt, which can be devastating to them.  They can find some very stupid ways to hurt themselves and really there is nowhere that is completely safe for them.  They can get hurt in their stalls.  They can get hurt in their pastures.  They can get hurt while dozing, standing tied.  It's unfortunately something you have to have the stomach and nerve to deal with if you want them in your life.

[Pheasant]

Thank you all for your responses!

What I'm looking for is a basic guide for beginning horse owners that tells you the 'do's and don't's' of raising horses. What to feed them, how often to ride, things like that. I don't need guides on breeding, showing, or how to 'break-in' (is that the proper term for training them to wear tack?) your horse - he not only handles the saddles and bit well, he'll allow me to ride bareback too. As for saddle size, I've got a saddle that fits me perfectly, and should for a while unless I go through a growth spurt, lol. The guides and websites suggested look to be very helpful and I'll be sure to read them. Thank you for your recommendations! I did borrow the book Horses (for Dummies, lol) from the library today and it looks like a good introduction.

@ Katika -
Having an Animal Science degree sounds so cool! I'm sorry I wasn't very clear about what I was searching for, I should have mentioned that in the original post. But like I mentioned above, just an all-inclusive beginner's guide so that I can provide him with the best possible care. I think I'm fine with the Dummies book for now, but if you have a better one in mind I'd like to know. As for your questions:

How are you currently keeping him?  Is he boarded or at your house?
He's at my house, currently housed in a small paddock with a large lean-to like shed so that he can keep out of the weather.

Is he stalled at times or out in the pasture all the time?
He is constantly on pasture, although he does have shelters and smaller corrals/paddocks to be locked into when nessecary.

Do you know the timing for his routine farrier/veterinary care?
I was told that he won't need shoeing for approximately eight months. As for the vet... considering that neither he nor his recent owners have his papers yet, I do not know what shots he needs or has had. I've had recommendations for a certain vet from at least three different people, however, so at least I don't have to search for one.

[Katika]

Just wanted to pop in again to say that I'm getting ready to run from severe weather (having no storm shelter/basement in the Midwest is NO FUN in the spring time!), but will hopefully be back sometime before bed to mention some stuff about diet and routine vet care for you   If someone else gets to it first, that's cool too.  I just wanted to make sure that you knew I hadn't forgotten about you

[Epona]

8 WEEKS for the farrier. Horses feet should be trimmed every 6-10 weeks depending on the individual horse, time of year, amount and kind of exercise and if he is shod or barefoot. Start looking for a good farrier now as the good farriers book weeks in advance.

Find out from the previous owner when he is due for his yearly vaccines. Its a good idea to have the vet come out and do a health check even if he isnt due for his vaccines.
The vet will also check his teeth to see if they need to be "floated". Horses teeth grow constantly and can develop sharp points on them that the vet has to grind off. This is done every 6-12 months.

Also find out when he was last de-wormed, horses need to be de-wormed every 2-3months with alternating types of de-wormer.

I highly recomend buying a book on horse nutrition and a book on diseases/illnesses/injuries and how to recognize health problems. Especially read up on colic and founder/laminitis and the signs of them. The more knowledge you have, books you read, horse people you talk to the better.

Good luck. He is very cute.

[Pheasant]

Just wanted to pop in again to say that I'm getting ready to run from severe weather (having no storm shelter/basement in the Midwest is NO FUN in the spring time!), but will hopefully be back sometime before bed to mention some stuff about diet and routine vet care for you   If someone else gets to it first, that's cool too.  I just wanted to make sure that you knew I hadn't forgotten about you

Thanks for letting me know, I'd appreciate that. Stay safe!

8 WEEKS for the farrier. Horses feet should be trimmed every 6-10 weeks depending on the individual horse, time of year, amount and kind of exercise and if he is shod or barefoot. Start looking for a good farrier now as the good farriers book weeks in advance.

Really! I must have misheard, then. What does the average trimming cost? He's shod on his front feet, but his hind are bare.

[Epona]

Trims run from $35 canadian (all 4 feet barefoot) and up. Re-setting shoes costs more. 2 new shoes and a trim starts at $90 canadian and up. Every farrier charges differently

[Pheasant]

That's about what I expected it to be. Thanks for letting me know.

[Katika]

Yes, farrier work should be done relatively frequently to maintain the comfort and health of the legs.  It's even more important to stay with routine hoof care when the horse is wearing shoes, as the shoes prevent any sort of natural chipping away of abnormal/excessive growth.  My guys get done every six weeks in the winter (hooves tend to grow slower in the winter) and every five weeks in the summer (one of my mares' feet completely fall apart if they get too long).  Shop for a farrier carefully, as they can completely destroy your horse's soundness.  The best way to do this is to contact local barns/boarding/training stables, large animal veterinarians and any personal friends you have that might have horses.  Often, a good farrier is more difficult to find than a good vet.  Also consider the type of riding you plan on doing; depending on how his foot is put together and the amount of hard riding and over what sort of terrain you plan to do it on, he may not even need front shoes

Routine veterinary care records won't be something that you can find on his registration papers - all those do is confirm that the registry has a horse of his exact description in their records and the contact information for his "current" owner.  Papers are really only a big deal if you plan to do any sort of breed shows or if you plan to ever sell him as a show prospect.  Out of the four horses I've known, I've only even bothered to update the papers on two of them, lol.  They are, however, a reasonable way to show proof of ownership, should there be some sort of legal or even traveling issue that comes up, but I always hope that sort of thing is unlikely.

You'll want to talk to your veterinarian about the vaccinations that are recommended for your area, as they do differ slightly by region.  Typically, horses will receive either EWT or VEWT (Venezuelan/Eastern/Western Encephalomyelitis + Tetanus... This is a disease commonly referred to as "sleeping sickness".  Horses also carry the tetanus toxoid in their lower GI tract, and so they are exposed to it more often than we are... it's been suggested, as well, that horse people stay more frequent on their own tetanus vaccinations for this reason), depending on what region you're in.  This vaccine is sometimes referred to either as a 3-Way or 4-Way, due to the number of things it vaccinates against.  Depending on the normal biting insect population in your area, your vet may suggest to vaccinate once in the spring, once in the fall.  West Nile is another mosquito-carried disease that is commonly (and I highly suggest) vaccinating against, and it can sometimes be lumped in with your V/EWT vaccine.  Another vaccine that is considered a core vaccine is Flu/Rhino, which protects against the most common respiratory diseases that horses can be afflicted with.  The last core vaccine is Rabies, which I cannot stress enough its importance (just like for your dog or cat).  Those are the vaccines that every horse ought to have.  Talk to your vet about the frequency of receiving them, as travel (including hauling to trails) and interaction with horses (especially those that have interacted with non-local horses) can increase the likelihood of your horse encountering these diseases. 

Your vet may also suggest you vaccinate against a disease called Strangles, but it's really only a concern if your horse will be sharing food/water/nose sniffs/bits/etc with non-healthy horses.  My horses don't really go anywhere, only come into contact with closed herds and even when we do go places, I'm very particular about what they're allowed to touch.  All vaccines are capable of producing unpleasant side effects, and the Strangles vaccine is more likely to do so than the core vaccines, so since my horses' risk for this disease is so low, I personally forego it.  Make sure you balance out your horse's personal risk for contracting the disease to determine if this vaccine is right for you

Two more important routine veterinary items are getting a Coggins pulled and teeth floated.  A Coggins test shows whether or not a horse has contracted EIA (Equine Infectious Anemia) which is spread primarily through horseflies and is incurable.  It is a super scary disease that almost beyond a doubt results in the horse being euthanized in order to protect other horses in the area.  Fly control is super important for reasons like this.  A up-to-date Coggins test is required to haul to most parks/trails to protect other equines that are in the area.  Also, a horse's teeth grow continuously from the time that it sheds its milk teeth until there is no more tooth left (usually in their late 20s or so).  Their top jaw is just a little bit bigger than their lower one and the act of grinding forage all day actually causes wear on their teeth, which can cause sharp hooks to develop where the teeth naturally don't line up, and ramps that cause them to be unable to properly chew their food.  To get their teeth floated, the veterinarian will sedate them and file these imperfections out, resulting in a well-aligned and comfortable mouth for them.  A lot of people don't make teeth floating a priority, which is a shame, because it can do wonders for a horse's health and comfort.

Feeding horses is my favorite!  I had three semesters in nutrition and could pretty much talk your ears off about it.  My biggest advice to horse people, though, is to keep forage available to your horse as close to 24/7 as possible.  That is the best way to keep them in good weight, keep them from developing behavior problems, and to maintain the health of their GI tract (let me know if you want the scoop on colic... that can take a long time to get through, too!  Not sure how much you know of it, though, so I'll wait on that for now ).  Horses are actually designed to eat "poor quality" forage, meaning forage lower in nutritional value, so mostly regular grass.  Legumes, such as alfalfa, lespedeza, peanut hay and the like have very little room in the average pleasure horse's diet, regardless to what anyone says.  They are simply too rich and, in the case of alfalfa, imbalanced from a nutritional stand point.  A horse must eat between 1-2% of their bodyweight in dry matter forage a day to maintain their health and typically their weight.  Anything less than 1% can cause severe GI distress.

The good news is, since your boy's out on pasture almost exclusively, he should be getting all of the forage he needs.  I do suggest keeping some quality (as in mold free and clean of weeds) hay on hand and giving him some daily so that his stomach stays accustomed to it if you ever do have to keep him locked up, and especially for winter time when you don't have pasture, but for now, most of his nutrition will be coming from the grass, and that is fine. One word of warning about feeding grass, though... if you do ever decide to start stalling him for a large portion of the day, you'll want to carefully monitor how much grass he consumes during the spring time, especially.  A horse's stomach will adjust to the diet that it is being fed if that diet is introduced slowly (such as when spring starts, and he starts eating the new growth from the start), but sudden spikes in the sugars in lush spring grass can cause a buildup of lactic acid in the blood which sort of pools down in their feet and can destroy the connective tissue supporting the coffin bone in their foot.  This can result in a very devastating condition called laminitis (which can lead to founder) that can permanently cripple your horses.  As I said, though, the risk is quite low for a horse that is kept on pasture 24/7, as their stomachs have conditioned to properly digest that nutrition.

*I'll add a bit more on supplemental feed here in a bit after I get my own breakfast... Just wanted to make sure I posted this in case I lost power.  I didn't want to lose it all, lol!*

[Pheasant]

He'll always need shoes on at least  is front hooves. There aren't so many rocks here around the house, but on some of the back acreage and the BLM there's rocks scattered everywhere. I try to avoid taking him through there, but sometimes the safest trail is through small patches of rock so I don't have much choice.  I'll ask around for farrier recommendations. The only reason I'm purchasing his papers are for legal reasons, because while animal theft is uncommon here it isn't an impossibility. I don't want anyone getting away with that.

I did talk to a cashier at our local feedstore who raises Throughbreds, and he recommended I get him vaccinated for West Nile, too, since my county does have some problems with it. I'm a little wary about it since statistics show it kills a fairly large percent of the horses who get it, but better safe than sorry, I suppose. The only standing water near the house is the duck pond, which is obviously inhabited by ducks and between them and the chickens they do a great job of keeping insect populations down. I'll pass on the Strangles since he doesn't come into contact with our neighbors' horses, nor will I be showing or taking him to public places. As for the Coggins test and teeth float, I'll get to those once I get a vet appointment set up.

I appreciate you offering advice on colic, but I've found quite a few good webpages on it so I don't think that's nessecary.

I do have some quality grass hay - not alfalfa - on hand; as well as some grain recommendations so he'll have plenty to munch on when he needs it. He'll probably be free to wander in the pasture in winter, unless the snow is really deep and he can't dig through it. Speaking of pasture, since he's calmed down tremendously I can probably turn him out into the larger paddock today or tomorrow.

I greatly appreciate you taking the time and effort to offer advice, thank you!

[joce]

My vet just started doing fecals vs rotational worming. I know there is all kinds of science behind it with resistance but I'm not the one to ask about it.

Boarding for years I heard all the horror stories. Had two run into each other and one broke its neck. One drowned in water it could stand in at a cowboy race. Just be as careful as possible and have a good vet!

 We feed a alfalfa mix and always have. My mare in her mid twenties gets straight alfalfa. She also gets soaked beet pulp, hay cubes, and a ration balancer. If she does good in the summer I do just do a sr feed. The others get pretty much free choice hay and a ration balancer. They are dry lotted but moving to their acerage in the next week or so. Transitioning to grass can be a pain.

Every person, every vet, every farrier had a different way. You'll find a mix of everything and it will work out.

 I know for me I grew up with horses and took a almost ten yr break. Everything was different when I got back into them. Feed, worming, tack etc. I really like the horse forum because it lets me see what other people are having issues with(feet, skin, diet wise etc) and how to avoid or what to look for.

Its a good idea to have a trainer for you to. A lot of horses will pick up on the fact that you may be unsure of something and they will take advantage. A lesson or two a month can nip stuff in the but before it becomes a bad habit.