The MLP Arena
Creativity => Customs => Topic started by: True on January 31, 2018, 10:01:30 PM
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Yep I feel like Iv tried every brand of paint, in just about every combination of watered down, but I still get those stupid lumps and streaks that I have come to associate with white paint... lol.
I can't afford an airbrush unfortunately, and I also can't afford to send out my custom projects to be airbrushed by someone else each time I need a white base. >.<
Has anyone cracked this yet? I'm really hoping I'm just doing something wrong!
Please help! lol
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I've used a super thin, watery layer (try not to let it pool in places, but not a big problem if it does), let it dry completely, then used a super fine sandpaper to sand it down, and then repeat until opaque. It's really time consuming and tedious, but I've found that the result is really worth it!
I've used I think like 400(ish?) and 600 grit. 400 scratched a bit too far when I wasn't careful (because that's how thin my paint layers were) so I recommend 600, but any super fine sandpaper should be okay as long as you're gentle. It might not even look like it does much when you sand down the individual layers, but I feel like it really makes a difference in making the end result really even
I've used various cheap brands of paint from Michaels (including the generic one, I don't remember exactly what the others were) and Golden brand acrylics (I had it leftover from a color theory class I had to take) and found that I liked the generic brand way more because it dried completely matte while Golden was kind of glossy and plastic-y. I still got an okay result from Golden, it just way harder to work with on a plastic surface because it was really hard to get the water-to-paint ratio right and the finish just didn't look good to me. Any really matte acrylic paint should probably work fine!
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My go-to for white paint is Createx airbrush opaque white. Not sure if you've tried that yet? I believe it is still sold at Hobby Lobby, but you can also buy it online at a lot of places. Airbrush paint is already a thinner consistency and is highly pigmented. And then it's just the old tried and true advice - lots of thin coats and making sure it has time to fully dry between each coat.
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I tend to avoid white bodied customs for this same reason. I just use cheap apple barrel acrylics and yes, as mentioned, watered down light layers are best. (Yellow is also one of those colors where you really need a base layer of white and then work many layers over... )
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Thank you all so much! I have never tried sanding, so I am definitely going to try that next! I might look into some airbrush paint too.
I've also Kinda avoided white customs for this reason.. I have a few white baits that I hoard.. BUT They are all badly in need of sun fading and its winter here so thats not happening lol.
With these modern advances in science why cant we have a white, and yellow and (I guess any light pigmented color) that doesn't leave texture! xD
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I used to use Testor's acrylic white because it was self-smoothing and didn't need thinning but it took forever to dry and was much harder to find than their enamel paints (do NOT use enamel).
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I also use Createx airbrush paints, for everything just about (not just in my airbrush). I know that some people have a lot of luck using make-up sponges for smooooothness, but they never worked out for me.
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Oh Iv never thought to use sponges, maybe I can see if that will work too at some point!
Also don't worry Skeen xD I'm one of those people who cringe when I see people using enamel and nail polish for FBR's x.x I once got a bait lot and one of the ponies had an enamel FBR and I just had to wonder what the person was thinking, Luckily I got it cleaned up good lol.
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I use Testor's enamel on my models, and I thoroughly enjoy the results. Testor's colors mix so nicely, and they're easy to work with. I personally don't thin my paints when I use them, but I have tried and they do thin will with a little paint thinner to go on smoother. They just didn't adhere as well to my models as I wanted. So I recommend Testor's, some good brushes, and patience.
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I used to use War Hammer/Citadel Skull White spray paint before I got an airbrush :)
Love pkw xxx
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What sort of brushes are you using?
I've never experienced this issue and ive just just about every brand of paint from cheap dollar store paints to expensive "artist quality" paints.
* use brushes with fine / soft synthetic bristles.
* paint on days with low humidity , or under a lamp that will heat enough to dry the paint quickly.
* thin your paints , if you're still getting clumps add more water. You may have to run the thinned paint thru a cloth strainer to eliminate the more stubborn chunks
* take more time in between lawyers to give give the paint more time to dry properly.
Failing that.
If you look on ebay you can find some decent air brush with mini compressors fairly cheaply.
They are usually marketed as cake decorating or nail art sets. But work well for painting ponies etc.
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I use Testors Model Master acrylic on mine. It works great as a base coat too because it sticks to the plastic better. Also used Polly Scale acrylic, though I don't think it's made anymore.
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What sort of brushes are you using?
I've never experienced this issue and ive just just about every brand of paint from cheap dollar store paints to expensive "artist quality" paints.
* use brushes with fine / soft synthetic bristles.
* paint on days with low humidity , or under a lamp that will heat enough to dry the paint quickly.
* thin your paints , if you're still getting clumps add more water. You may have to run the thinned paint thru a cloth strainer to eliminate the more stubborn chunks
* take more time in between lawyers to give give the paint more time to dry properly.
Failing that.
If you look on ebay you can find some decent air brush with mini compressors fairly cheaply.
They are usually marketed as cake decorating or nail art sets. But work well for painting ponies etc.
I dunno about all that.. x.x I mean I live in a place thats pretty low humidity even in the hottest part of summer. Iv been doing this for quite a few years (since 2006) and Iv been working with acrylic for even longer than that, Iv used lots of brands as well, collected a fair mass of high quality brushes, and know how to thin and paint on with thin layers and dry completely. lol In the past when using acrylic for non custom things, Its been large scale so I never really noticed the texture enough to care I suppose. xD
I'm no expert of course, I would never claim to be. But personally and according to a lot of my artists friends, x.x white just seems to be a trouble color lol. I wish I had your luck!
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Oh I hear ya! White paint is my bane. In small doses for markings its fine. Anything bigger and it totally streaks. It's aggravating because as an amateur model horse customizer I always need it.
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one of these ponys is hand brushed the other is airbrushed .
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guess which one is which.
note: I used the cheapest , chalkyest paint I have on these .
the only thing added to the paint was tap water for the hand brush and my own mix thinner for the air brush
thinner is %60 IPA, %40 tap water , 4 drops liquitex drying retardant , 4 drops liquitex flow aid
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FW Alcohol Acrylic Ink has the best pigment load AND can be used through and airbrush if needed. Dries quick and can be layered.
I've always used Triangle makeup sponges from the dollar store before I airbrushed. You don't know how many people thought I airbrushed them :)