The MLP Arena
Creativity => Customs => Topic started by: mylittELLEpony on August 15, 2017, 07:20:26 AM
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A lot of the "baits" I'm restoring are missing pieces. Entire legs, ears, horns, parts of faces, etc. I'm comfortable with using sculpy from other art projects and know it can be used for custom ponies, so I figure it will work here. Could someone point me in the right direction when it comes to solidifying the material onto the body? I don't want to melt the original pieces. Thank you!
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I've talked with others who use oven bake clay on ponies, and they say to just keep a close eye on them while they are baking. I'm currently sculpting on a g3 with fimo, so I'm just going to be watching the doll as she bakes.
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I've talked with others who use oven bake clay on ponies, and they say to just keep a close eye on them while they are baking. I'm currently sculpting on a g3 with fimo, so I'm just going to be watching the doll as she bakes.
Oh man this gives me such anxiety :lol:!
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Oh you'll be fine!
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What about air dry clay?
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What about air dry clay?
I normally use air dry clay, but I don't like the time restraint that goes along with it. But there are similar products that is kind of a mix of both which is Miliput and Apoxie scuplt.
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i only use air dry clay to be on the safe side haha
you can get a smooth complexion by rubbing water on it
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Favorite air dry clay? :biggrin:
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Favorite air dry clay? :biggrin:
i use a doll clay, those are the ones who turn out the smoothest at least in my experience :biggrin:
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Favorite air dry clay? :biggrin:
i use a doll clay, those are the ones who turn out the smoothest at least in my experience :biggrin:
Is there a specific brand that works better than others or are they all about the same?
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A lot of artists here use Apoxie Sculpt, which is a 2-part epoxy resin clay that air dries, and I have had good results using it myself. It is pricey, but the problem with cheap air-dry clays is that they are not as smooth and have more shrinkage.
It is possible to use oven-bake polymer clays with ponies, since they cure at a relatively low temperature, but it is important not to go over the recommended temperature, and to support the pony on foil or something like that to where it is not touching the baking pan or rack directly. I also recommend keeping it right in the middle of the oven, where it won't be too close to the heating elements. As others have said, watch it carefully. I had a pony deform on me once, but she was directly on the baking pan, and I may have had her in there too long. The last time I used polymer clay (patching a chewed hoof recently), I put the pony on a bed of foil elevated off the baking sheet and it worked fine.
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Favorite air dry clay? :biggrin:
i use a doll clay, those are the ones who turn out the smoothest at least in my experience :biggrin:
Is there a specific brand that works better than others or are they all about the same?
i use a local brand so i dont know much about the different brands thats out there.
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Apoxie Sculpt tends to get the most recc's, and like others of its ilk (Miliput, Green Stuff) are more accurately called 'room temperature curing' than 'air dry' - the curing can be accelerated with heat and slowed down with cold. You can usually work with them for hours before they're too far set.
They're safer for restorations than using oven curing clay since you don't risk burning your poor ponies in the process.
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Green Stuff and epoxy clays are verrrry different textures. Green Stuff is more plasticky but can hold very fine detail, epoxy clay can still be very detailed but is more 'clay-y' in texture. Either would probably work for restorations but epoxy would be my preference.
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A lot of the "baits" I'm restoring are missing pieces. Entire legs, ears, horns, parts of faces, etc. I'm comfortable with using sculpy from other art projects and know it can be used for custom ponies, so I figure it will work here. Could someone point me in the right direction when it comes to solidifying the material onto the body? I don't want to melt the original pieces. Thank you!
I learned a trick about sculpy years ago. I was doing a cosplay and trying to create a sculpy buckle directly on a leather belt--which I obviously couldn't put in the oven! I found a solution online: if you boil a big pot of water on top of the stove, you can dunk the sculpy in the boiling water and that will 'cook' it exactly the same as if you cooked it in the oven. It worked great for my cosplay!
I never tried it with a pony, but I am betting this would be a safe alternative to baking a pony in the oven. Best to try with an experimental one first, though. :)
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A lot of the "baits" I'm restoring are missing pieces. Entire legs, ears, horns, parts of faces, etc. I'm comfortable with using sculpy from other art projects and know it can be used for custom ponies, so I figure it will work here. Could someone point me in the right direction when it comes to solidifying the material onto the body? I don't want to melt the original pieces. Thank you!
I learned a trick about sculpy years ago. I was doing a cosplay and trying to create a sculpy buckle directly on a leather belt--which I obviously couldn't put in the oven! I found a solution online: if you boil a big pot of water on top of the stove, you can dunk the sculpy in the boiling water and that will 'cook' it exactly the same as if you cooked it in the oven. It worked great for my cosplay!
I never tried it with a pony, but I am betting this would be a safe alternative to baking a pony in the oven. Best to try with an experimental one first, though. :)
I'll try this out and report back! Thanks.
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I would just get some apoxie sculpt.
The problem with sculpty is that it can slump when it gets too hot, or burn, or move, and it is also pretty brittle, and also you'll have to glue the clay again once it is baked- because once dry it won't necessarily stick to your pony as well. Also it seems heavier to me than apoxie.
Apoxie-sculp air dries and doesn't change shapes- it is sticky, but you can use gloves- and you can smooth it with water. Also it sands very well and dries VERY hard. And since it is essentially sculptable glue, you don't have to worry about it sticking once dry.