Rerooting/disassembling a Poopsie unicorn?

[MintyMyndi]

I wasn't sure whether to put this here or in the Dollhouse, but decided that here was a better place... I mean, they are fantasy horse toys, right? Maybe somebody's turned one into a My Little Pony character... I don't know.

What I do know is that I saw the cheapest one I've seen and scooped it up... The seller ripped a hole in space-time just to send it to me! I ordered it Friday or Saturday and it came Monday, which isn't a bad deal at all.

The TL;DR is that I want to know how much hair I need for her and what my best bet is to get it in there.

She's one of the original ones- Rainbow Brightstar, one of the first pair, if it matters- and she's missing a major component which allows her to poop. That's fine by me- I just think the doll's adorable! I like to think I saved some kid from the disappointment- I saw a ton of the singing ones which were obviously repackaged Christmas gifts for sale at the same time, so some kids really do want that feature! I'm thinking about putting in some sort of lights or sound activated by her bellybutton instead, and also replacing her feeding/rocking switch with wings of some sort. She'll be getting a new look, too, but I haven't decided just how far I'm going with it.

One one hand, the hair she has isn't great quality. I'd compare it to some G4 reboot pony hair. It's filthy, too- the brush I'm using to gauge the viability has black marks on it, so there definitely needs to be a wash at some point. It's also shedding like crazy, so I don't know how well it will hold up! I don't know the hairtype, let alone how well it will respond to defrizzing. And there's just. SO. MUCH. HAIR. I defrizzed three G1s last defrizzing session, and I totally killed my thigh muscles since I use my knees to hold the pony to free up my hands. A whole Poopsie unicorn? No thank you! If I were to reroot her, I'd know she'd be getting quality hair and I could choose whatever colors I want. I'd also be giving her a tail- it weirds me out a bit that she doesn't have one to begin with!

On the other hand, it'd take so much hair to reroot her. It's be expensive, time-consuming (though I would be less tempted to finish in one sitting than defrizzing), and her thick (but still soft) plastic would complicate things. I don't even know how to get inside her head! That's actually the reason I made this thread, since, despite my best efforts, I've yet to completely disassemble the doll. I can't find any instructions for customizing these, either, though if you want to make one from an LOL doll, you're very well covered!

There are four screws in the doll's back, which, when removed, don't seem to allow the doll's torso to come apart. I've come to the conclusion that the halves are glued, but I have been able to pull hard enough that the seams come apart just enough to be visible until I let go. The "butt panel," as I'll call it, opens to allow the mechanism's container (the piece mine is missing) to be removed and cleaned after each use, and the panel itself can just be popped off at the hinge. Internally, there are four screws holding the mechanism in place, and once you remove them, the internal panel can be removed (it's really hard to get it out, though!) and you get a lot of tiny pieces which are the ones that allow the bellybutton to function. I lost the spring, but it shouldn't be a problem for me- I have no clue where it was to begin with! I have the bellybutton, the only externally visible piece, so that's okay. The butt panel also has a removable part held in by two smaller screws, which I did take off, but I don't know the exact function it serves!

Once the unicorn is in this state, there's nothing else I can figure out to do. I might be able to pry the head off of the neck "joint" (the head doesn't turn) by sliding an X-Acto knife between the vinyl and the hard plastic, but my track record with that thing is pretty bad. My rerooted Triple Treat hides her neck seam with her luxurious, poofy locks, and none of my knife bites have scarred, but I'm not going to attempt that if there's an easier way.

Does anyone have experience with these? If not, could you help guide me if I were to provide pictures? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help, and thanks to all who read my latest novel!

EDIT: I have thought about just making a wig, but the horn and ears complicate things. I think I'd prefer a reroot. It'd be hard to remove all the hair without opening it- I've come to the realization that the ears are not only separate pieces, but they have rooting underneath them! Why are these things such a pain?

[starrynights]

Hey, I have disassembled a lot of toys and repaired mechanisms and stuff. My expertise is with furbies and I've never had one of these but I can try to help out if you'd like.
Also - with the wig, It's not too bad making holes. I got a soft cap wig for my Hujoo Freya, tried to put it on and marked where the ears go, and then folded the wig in half and cut there and now it goes on great.

[tailrustedtealeaf]

Sits in this thread waiting. I see them when I thrift sometimes but I never picked one up, I'll pick one up next time and have a blast tearing it apart.

[Pokeyonekenobie]

There are four screws in the doll's back, which, when removed, don't seem to allow the doll's torso to come apart. I've come to the conclusion that the halves are glued, but I have been able to pull hard enough that the seams come apart just enough to be visible until I let go.

My experience with disassembling toys/video game consoles is that usually there is a hidden screw somewhere that is the key to the whole thing.  Take apart all screws you can see, even the ones that don't seem to be holding it together.  Sometimes something is hiding that last screw.  Sometimes it will be under a small plastic plug that blends into it's surroundings.  If that's the case you just have to pry it up to reveal the screw and you can just slip it back into place after you've put the screw back in.   

If the seams really are glued, you should be able to take a blade and slice through them.  Though from the sounds of things you'll need someone to pull the halves apart so you can see the seams while you cut.

[MintyMyndi]

I've been staring things down for a while, and I think I've figured out the anatomy. That said, I've yet to actually take it completely apart. This'll make more sense with pictures, but I'm such a procrastinator... If all else fails, I'll draw a horrible diagram in MS Paint.

So the doll's head is vinyl or a similarly soft plastic; I'll be calling it vinyl. It's pretty thick, too; I shoved in a pushpin and despite being able to fully penetrate the head, it was tricky! She's gonna kill some needles for sure. The ears and horn are separate vinyl pieces which fit into holes in the head and are glued down. As previously stated, there are hair plugs under the ears, so they'll have to come of for hair removal. I've worked the glue off of the edges of the ears with a butterknife, but they still don't want to budge. The muzzle and irises/pupils are also separate pieces, which I don't think are structurally important; the eyes can probably be replaced by a skilled resin crafter, and probably not by a person whose sole completed custom is an alt reroot! The eyelashes are less rooted and more under the eye pieces, so they may be tricky to remove... I'm still gonna try, though! Mine's lashes are pretty funky!

If you flip the doll over to see the bottom of the head, you'll see how it connects to the body. The vinyl actually ends about half an inch from the neck itself, being glued (very strongly, I might add) to two hard plastic halves of what I believe to be the mouth cavity. If you curl a pipe cleaner and stick it in her mouth, you won't get very far since it has a ceiling, likely connected to this neck joint! It's not perfectly round; it has a flat side in the front to ensure the head goes on correctly.

Sandwiched between these two pieces is the actual neck. On mine, it can turn barely enough to be visible, so I'm hoping that there is a possibility for articulation. This is probably the main reason she won't just split in two! I don't have her mechanism completely removed, either- the chest still harbors the feeding/rocking switch.

I tried to pry with a butterknife after my mother expressed concern about the X-Acto blade breaking. I didn't get very far. If I can get the head vinyl to separate from the hard plastic, I may be able to get further. Next step is trying heat!

Also, for amount of hair, her head circumference is roughly 15 inches, so you should buy four times the Barbie amount from your hair shop of choice. Her hairline is pretty high and rooting pretty sparse, so you'll likely have some extra! The factory length is roughly eight inches.

[starrynights]

I've been staring things down for a while, and I think I've figured out the anatomy. That said, I've yet to actually take it completely apart. This'll make more sense with pictures, but I'm such a procrastinator... If all else fails, I'll draw a horrible diagram in MS Paint.

So the doll's head is vinyl or a similarly soft plastic; I'll be calling it vinyl. It's pretty thick, too; I shoved in a pushpin and despite being able to fully penetrate the head, it was tricky! She's gonna kill some needles for sure. The ears and horn are separate vinyl pieces which fit into holes in the head and are glued down. As previously stated, there are hair plugs under the ears, so they'll have to come of for hair removal. I've worked the glue off of the edges of the ears with a butterknife, but they still don't want to budge. The muzzle and irises/pupils are also separate pieces, which I don't think are structurally important; the eyes can probably be replaced by a skilled resin crafter, and probably not by a person whose sole completed custom is an alt reroot! The eyelashes are less rooted and more under the eye pieces, so they may be tricky to remove... I'm still gonna try, though! Mine's lashes are pretty funky!

If you flip the doll over to see the bottom of the head, you'll see how it connects to the body. The vinyl actually ends about half an inch from the neck itself, being glued (very strongly, I might add) to two hard plastic halves of what I believe to be the mouth cavity. If you curl a pipe cleaner and stick it in her mouth, you won't get very far since it has a ceiling, likely connected to this neck joint! It's not perfectly round; it has a flat side in the front to ensure the head goes on correctly.

Sandwiched between these two pieces is the actual neck. On mine, it can turn barely enough to be visible, so I'm hoping that there is a possibility for articulation. This is probably the main reason she won't just split in two! I don't have her mechanism completely removed, either- the chest still harbors the feeding/rocking switch.

I tried to pry with a butterknife after my mother expressed concern about the X-Acto blade breaking. I didn't get very far. If I can get the head vinyl to separate from the hard plastic, I may be able to get further. Next step is trying heat!

Also, for amount of hair, her head circumference is roughly 15 inches, so you should buy four times the Barbie amount from your hair shop of choice. Her hairline is pretty high and rooting pretty sparse, so you'll likely have some extra! The factory length is roughly eight inches.

I have removed the eyes from poopsie minis - the eye and the top part holding the lashes come off on their own when you remove them - you can pop them out from the inside.
Heat will definitely help! I tend to hold a lighter to my xacto knife until its scorched and it cuts hard plastic like butter then - as long as you don't mind removing some scorched plastic left over from where you cut.
You may want to try putting her head in boiling water - may make the hair frizz though.

[MintyMyndi]

I've been staring things down for a while, and I think I've figured out the anatomy. That said, I've yet to actually take it completely apart. This'll make more sense with pictures, but I'm such a procrastinator... If all else fails, I'll draw a horrible diagram in MS Paint.

So the doll's head is vinyl or a similarly soft plastic; I'll be calling it vinyl. It's pretty thick, too; I shoved in a pushpin and despite being able to fully penetrate the head, it was tricky! She's gonna kill some needles for sure. The ears and horn are separate vinyl pieces which fit into holes in the head and are glued down. As previously stated, there are hair plugs under the ears, so they'll have to come of for hair removal. I've worked the glue off of the edges of the ears with a butterknife, but they still don't want to budge. The muzzle and irises/pupils are also separate pieces, which I don't think are structurally important; the eyes can probably be replaced by a skilled resin crafter, and probably not by a person whose sole completed custom is an alt reroot! The eyelashes are less rooted and more under the eye pieces, so they may be tricky to remove... I'm still gonna try, though! Mine's lashes are pretty funky!

If you flip the doll over to see the bottom of the head, you'll see how it connects to the body. The vinyl actually ends about half an inch from the neck itself, being glued (very strongly, I might add) to two hard plastic halves of what I believe to be the mouth cavity. If you curl a pipe cleaner and stick it in her mouth, you won't get very far since it has a ceiling, likely connected to this neck joint! It's not perfectly round; it has a flat side in the front to ensure the head goes on correctly.

Sandwiched between these two pieces is the actual neck. On mine, it can turn barely enough to be visible, so I'm hoping that there is a possibility for articulation. This is probably the main reason she won't just split in two! I don't have her mechanism completely removed, either- the chest still harbors the feeding/rocking switch.

I tried to pry with a butterknife after my mother expressed concern about the X-Acto blade breaking. I didn't get very far. If I can get the head vinyl to separate from the hard plastic, I may be able to get further. Next step is trying heat!

Also, for amount of hair, her head circumference is roughly 15 inches, so you should buy four times the Barbie amount from your hair shop of choice. Her hairline is pretty high and rooting pretty sparse, so you'll likely have some extra! The factory length is roughly eight inches.

I have removed the eyes from poopsie minis - the eye and the top part holding the lashes come off on their own when you remove them - you can pop them out from the inside.
Heat will definitely help! I tend to hold a lighter to my xacto knife until its scorched and it cuts hard plastic like butter then - as long as you don't mind removing some scorched plastic left over from where you cut.
You may want to try putting her head in boiling water - may make the hair frizz though.

Honestly, at this point, I don't think the hair could get much worse if I tried! The problem is seeing if I have a nuke-able container large enough to submerge this massive melon, this colossal cranium, this... Okay, I'll stop.

I did pull out her eyelashes, since they were just glued; they're less like false lashes for human use and more like those fake craft feathers you get at Dollar Tree. The base of them is probably the same material as the core of those feathers. I kinda like her without them, but false lashes are cheap if I end up missing them!

EDIT: Things started okay with the boiling water, but as you may have guessed, things have gone a bit awry. I blame myself for being impatient. But first, let's talk discoveries.

The limbs fit over joints onto the body, not between the halves as I previously thought; they pop off easily with a little heat, so I recommend removing them so they're not in the way. With them off, the only thing preventing the body being split is the mouth cavity/neck joint pieces.

The "esophagus box," as I'll call it, is a rectangular piece with a hole in the middle for the doll to "swallow." It's a separate piece from the body, but it doesn't want to go anywhere; the feeding/rocking switch is inside it, sticking out a slit in the back close to the neck. I just barely can't get the body halves far enough apart to slip the switch through. If desperate measures need to be taken, I'll just break the switch part to allow the rest through.

The glue where the vinyl meets the plastic on the head extends further than previously assumed, with a bit of the "floor" of the inside of the head being glued as well. Cutting and prying need to be performed at odd angles.

The vinyl ears are glued onto plastic pieces that are attached to the head. I didn't try very hard to get those off since it seemed tricky. The horn seems like the easiest thing on the head to remove, but I still haven't succeeded!

And, finally, the muzzle piece may well be attached to the mouth cavity and need to come off to decapitate her. I tried, but it's about as easy as everything else! I gotta hand it to MGA- these things are built like tanks!

Now for what's gone wrong... Where to begin?

Well, first of all, the neck joint is open enough that it lets in a ton of water- not just into the mouth cavity, but the head as a whole. I hope it doesn't mold, since I couldn't get the horn off to let it breathe.

Remember how I said that work on the neck joint requires odd angles? Well, I somehow didn't notice that I was scratching the heck out of the chest! I'll try to smooth it out, but let's just say I'm glad that I was planning on dressing this thing. I also managed to scratch the muzzle a bit.

Speaking of being glad, I was planning on removing the horn's glitter, painting it white, and replacing the glitter with iridescent glitter. This is relevant because the glitter fell off in chunks!

While prying away at the esophagus box (before I realized how deep it went and that it had the switch in it), I managed to chip off a piece, which went flying and stung me on the bridge of my nose... perhaps unicorn disassembly requires safety goggles! I also bent the back piece a bit, which is just great.

And now, for the part that's, to me, the worst: I ruined her eyes. They apparently didn't like the heat, the moisture, or the combination of the two and the image on the back of the clear iris piece cracked. Best case scenario I can acetone it off and paint a new one. It sucks, too, because I tried for a second to pop one out, but decided I didn't want to risk scratching the image... Perhaps this is a blessing in disguise, though; I wasn't totally in love with her eyes as-is, but decided I'd deal with them. Now I can't do that without making up some reason she has lightning in her eyes (and no, it doesn't look as cool as it sounds)!

Oh, and the hair doesn't seem to be damaged, so that's good, but MGA have warned not to get the hair wet... I wonder why? Perhaps it will explode at midnight tonight; with the way things have been going, I wouldn't be surprised! I am going to reroot her, though. And she's gonna be the prettiest dang unicorn the world's ever seen! Or not. But either way, I'll continue forward, but I need a beak for a bit!

[starrynights]

What a struggle! A test of patience.
If I were at this point I'd just go crazy cutting/melting things and gluing and sculpting/sanding over it in the end...but I'm not the patient type.

[MintyMyndi]

I wrote all this last night and had to save it in Notepad, so... yeah. I used some weird terminology but I think I was able to explain everything...

Video dissection, or at least slideshow dissection, will soon be in the works. That's right, I've done it- she's been disassembled!
visitors can't see pics , please register or login

...Mostly, anyway, but I know how every piece I need to deal with goes together, and that's fine by me! I just need to figure out whether it's easier to break certain pieces... more on those later on.

I'll start with the pieces you need heat to remove, then work in a way I feel is logical. I hope you can follow all this, but if you can't, there will be visual aid soon!

The eyeballs can be pried out of their sockets quite easily with heat. Each one has four pieces and none are identical to the other side, though the iris/pupil piece is similar, so keep track! The iris and pupil are printed on a plasticky film on the back of a clear plastic piece; this film is very fragile, but peels off easily! This piece fits into a white cornea piece, and, once together, can be slid downward into the black eyelid piece. This piece has two prongs on the back which fit into holes in the eye sockets. The eyelashes fit between the eyelid and cornea and should be placed before the eye is reassembled.

The limbs pop onto joints sticking out from the body and are also quite easy to remove once heated. The arm joints are only attached to the back half of the torso, but the leg joints are formed by both halves. You technically don't need to remove the arms to take her apart, but I recommend it as they can get in the way of the neck seam. The legs are easy to tell apart, but the arms are more difficult; I recommend marking them somehow on the flat part that is invisible when she's assembled.

The torso's outer shell has three pieces: the front, the back, and the butt panel. In front of the butt panel (and, therefore, concerningly in front of the buttcrack) is the heart-shaped poohole, formed by the front and back pieces. Is it even a butthole? I feel like she needs to see a doctor, judging by the things that come out of it...

The butt panel has a hinge at the bottom which can be popped apart with minimal force. It has a spring-loaded latching mechanism which I haven't deconstructed, but don't want to. There are two "switches" (I guess that's what they'd be called?) attached to two "bars" on the inside which hold the panel closed. They are held outward by an internal spring, which will be coiled by pressing both switches to bring the bars closer together and allow the panel to open. (I feel like I dumbed that down a bit too much...)
There's also another piece on the inside of the butt panel, down by its hinge. It's held in place by two screws which are smaller than the ten (yes, TEN) other screws throughout the unicorn. I'm unsure of how it functions other than helping to hold the slime container in place, but it has the main part with two screw holes and a spring-loaded "tail" which sticks out slightly.
Also, if you want to give her a tail, you'd want to drill a hole right above the buttcrack, right? Well, there's a flat piece of plastic on the inside that complicates that... You'll see what I mean later.

I feel like I'm throwing the term "buttcrack" around too much... I feel that I should replace it with something more professional. From now on, I'll be using the scientific term "intergluteal cleft." It feels a bit more dignified.

The front torso panel has little to write home about externally except for a second, smaller heart-shaped hole for the belly button. It's located exactly where you'd expect it to be.

The back torso piece has a slit at the top for the feeding/rocking switch to fit through. It also has a gaping hole for the butt panel. There are four screw holes: one at each side of the neck and one at each hip. They must be removed in order to separate the halves... obviously... Eh, it's typical of me to underexplain, so I'd rather err on the side of overexplaining to get my point across... It needs all the help it can get until I get the pics!

Each body piece has a ridge at the neck to allow the halves of the neck joint to hold them together. Which brings us to those stubborn guys...
The neck joint is essentially a flat disc with a hole in the middle. The back half of the neck joint is basically shaped like half of a donut. The front side is similar, but has a flat portion at the front. These are the main pieces which prevent head articulation; obviously, the concept of a turning head isn't exactly compatible with the mechanism; the hole in the middle of the neck joint has one half that's more egg-shaped and one that's like a rounded rectangle; this is true of the corresponding torso halves. They aren't too far off of a circle, but only fit on the torso one way. You could probably sand the torso to allow for articulation... I'm debating trying it myself.
The neck joint pieces are held together by a screw at each side. They are glued to the vinyl head and are one of the most difficult pieces to remove. You can do it neatly or quickly, but not both. I was being careful on one side, but got impatient halfway through; it's immediately obvious which is which, as you'll see soon enough.

I probably should address whether to use heat. Glue and vinyl are stubborn without it, but very easy (perhaps too easy) to cut with it. Pick your poison; mine was already in need of a fix for some scratches, so I opted for making mistakes but quickly making progress, since I could fix them at the same time. I've learned from the experience, and, should I claim another victim, it'll go a lot smoother the second time around.

The mouth hole in the muzzle fits onto the mouth cavity, which is inside the torso; you may need to remove it to remove the body from the head. I'm not sure if it's necessary, since I didn't detach the neck seam fully before detaching the muzzle. There's vinyl behind it, and it's glued on good, so you will probably need to cut some vinyl to maintain your sanity. I recommend being very careful on the edges, since that's the part that'll be visible, then just cut the bottom until you can lift the muzzle off of the mouth cavity. If you do any more damage than that, you'll probably come to regret it like I do. It's probably an easy fix, but it would be easier had I done it "right."

Once you've detached the neck seam and maybe the muzzle, you can open the torso. You could technically access a lot of this stuff before through the opening for the butt panel, but you couldn't fully separate the two halves. This is all part of the pooping mechanism, so I don't think I described it yet (and I'm too lazy to read my ramblings from before). If you want to maintain even partial function, you'll need to know which pieces do what and how they can serve your purposes.

So the biggest chunk that I haven't dissected is the mouth cavity, esophagus box, and feeding/rocking switch, which are essentially one piece, at least for my purposes. They sit between the two halves of the body and extend upward into the head to attach to the muzzle.
The mouth cavity has two halves, with a seam perpendicular to others we've seen so far. It's just big enough to allow you to feed the unicorn and pour it into the slime container.
The esophagus box is perhaps more accurately an esophagus slab; it's thinner than it seems at first glance. It has rubber seals on its underside for the slime container, and I'm pretty sure it glues onto the mouth cavity. It certainly isn't easy to separate them and, since I'll be ditching the functionality, I don't really feel like trying. It does not have a visible seam, let alone a seam in the same direction as the mouth cavity's, so I'm confident in saying they're separate pieces.
The feeding/rocking switch fits between these two pieces. It's pretty simple- in the feeding position, a hole aligns with those in the other pieces, allowing ingredients through, and in the rocking position, there is a solid portion of the switch blocking the hole. If you were to get your hands on one of these dolls and wanted to be a massive troll, you could open this section and flip the switch around to cause chaos when someone tries to use her for her intended purpose. Then again, would it really be worth the effort considering what it took to get to this point?

Attached to the front half of the torso is a panel with four more screws to work with. It has a square hole for the "heart square," a rectangular hole in the middle which is likely for the slime container, and a gap at the bottom for that portion of the "belly paddle." It also is really difficult to remove through the open butt panel, so I recommend separating the torso halves before attempting to mess with it. Also, the back side (or front side, since it lines up with the doll's front) has a spring attached to it near the neck and I'm not sure what it does. Anybody who can tell me what it does gets a limited-edition feeling of accomplishment with free two-day shipping. Oh, and I'll say thank-you!
Once removed, you can remove a long, thin piece (the "belly paddle"), a square piece with rubber on it (the "heart square," named for its location), a small spring roughly the diameter of a standard drinking straw (mine fled the country, so likely will not make it to the photo shoot), and the belly button itself.
The best way to explain the functions of each piece is to describe them going back together. The belly button goes into the heart-shaped hole in the belly; the spring (probably!) goes in the circular spot where the heart would be if the unicorn had situs inversus; the heart square goes over it, pressing it down, and the belly paddle has pegs which fit into grooves up by the heart square. The panel will hold everything in place.
When everything's in place, pressing the belly button will also press the belly paddle. It has a button-pushing "finger," if you will, which will open the bottom of the slime container to allow its contents to escape via the poohole. At the same time, a portion of the belly paddle presses down on part of the heart square and therefore (probably) the spring, allowing the belly button to come back forward a bit.

And, finally, we have the head. Inside, you'll see the rooting and how the ears and horn attach. As a result, you'll know why I couldn't just pop off the horn. I thought it may be able to just pop out, since I'd seen one of these sold with the horn missing, but that one was definitely broken. If you know how safety eyes work, you have a pretty good idea of how the horn attaches- there's a plastic washer that is made to only go one way. It can be done, but it's VERY hard to work off the plastic washer without breaking it, though mine won't see play (by a child, anyway) so I think I can live with breaking that one. The ears are similar, but each one has two... "shafts?" I guess?... that have one supermegawasher shaped like the ear securing both of them. They may be essential to holding the scalp's shape under the ear, but I don't know. I can't figure anything out for these, but I need to for rerooting. It's not like I can use my hands, either; the hole is too small for adult hands and it's mildly sharp due to the X-Acto knife misbehaving. If you have anything I could try, do let me know!

And that's about it. If I seem out of it, it's because I am. I had too much coffee today, forgot to eat much of anything, and have slept weird due to a bump that appeared on my scalp/neck/hairline the other day... Don't worry, I think it's getting smaller! If I made up words or just overall made no sense, I apologize for that. Pictures are in my future plans, but for now I'm taking a break.

[starrynights]

Thanks for the write up! Interesting.
To reach inside the head, try a long hemostat - they also come curved when needed. And are as strong as a pliers when clamped!

[MintyMyndi]

Thanks for the write up! Interesting.
To reach inside the head, try a long hemostat - they also come curved when needed. And are as strong as a pliers when clamped!

I have two pairs, one curved and one straight. I was going to try to work off the washer with them, but my straight pair wasn't where I left them... I could try any number of things, including a butterknife, a crochet hook, or even a pair of scissors, but I currently have her mostly assembled in preparation for the photo shoot which is no easy feat with the mouth cavity chunk in place.

[starrynights]

Thanks for the write up! Interesting.
To reach inside the head, try a long hemostat - they also come curved when needed. And are as strong as a pliers when clamped!

I have two pairs, one curved and one straight. I was going to try to work off the washer with them, but my straight pair wasn't where I left them... I could try any number of things, including a butterknife, a crochet hook, or even a pair of scissors, but I currently have her mostly assembled in preparation for the photo shoot which is no easy feat with the mouth cavity chunk in place.

Can't wait to see pics this project is super interesting!