Help with paint and sealing

[Kaeldre]

Many moons ago, I made custom ponies for myself and my hubby.  At the time, I thought they were awesome but, after digging them out and looking at them now, I definitely could have done a better job.  Both were painted with paintbrushes and were sealed with glossy Mod Podge (also with paintbrushes).  Maybe it's the type/quality of the brushes I used, but the Mod Podge has brush streaks.  Also, I'm guessing it's because I used glossy rather than matte Mod Podge, they have dust and hairs stuck to the.

I see so many custom ponies on here with even paint and sealant application-- Is there something I could have done differently?  Should I invest in an inexpensive airbrush?  Will post pics later when I have access to them.

[BlackCurtains]

Mod Podge is a terrible sealer (it's basically just glue). If you can find Testor's Dullcote, use that instead. It's a spray sealant and doesn't go tacky is applied right. Glossy is usually used for eyes and symbols and scultped parts if they're meant to have a wet look. Matte or Satin is better for FBR.

To keep brushstrokes to a minimum it's best to use very thin layers of paint on top of each other after each one dries. Some people have good results using make-up sponges instead of brushes. You don't necessarily need an airbrush

[Kaeldre]

Mod Podge is a terrible sealer (it's basically just glue). If you can find Testor's Dullcote, use that instead. It's a spray sealant and doesn't go tacky is applied right. Glossy is usually used for eyes and symbols and scultped parts if they're meant to have a wet look. Matte or Satin is better for FBR.

To keep brushstrokes to a minimum it's best to use very thin layers of paint on top of each other after each one dries. Some people have good results using make-up sponges instead of brushes. You don't necessarily need an airbrush

Fantabulous!  Thanks for the tips!  I don't remember where I saw Mod Podge being recommended as a sealer, but I remember not thinking too much about it at the time.

Do you know of Mod Podge is water soluble?  I'd like to try and clean the dust off of my hubby's custom.

[BlackCurtains]

It was a commonly used as a sealer for quite a few years but more people started using Dullcote or Mr. Super Clear (I have no experience with that one) instead. Mod Podge is okay for some projects, it does well with paper for example, but isn't that great for ponies.

It is indeed water soluble.

[Kaeldre]

It was a commonly used as a sealer for quite a few years but more people started using Dullcote or Mr. Super Clear (I have no experience with that one) instead. Mod Podge is okay for some projects, it does well with paper for example, but isn't that great for ponies.

It is indeed water soluble.

Yeah, I think I made these in 2011 and that was the recommended sealer at the time.

Aww, poo.  That's what I thought.  Will have to find a water-free way to clean these.  Thank you again! <33

[Griffin]

I think you should try to remove the layer of Mod Podge (carefully!) with water - acrylic paint isn't watersoluble once it's dried so you may be able to preserve the paint and reseal it with something better? I don't know if it will work, the paint may flake or rub off if too much pressure is applied.

If you choose a spray sealant, make sure to use a respiratory mask and spray them outdoors! There are some brush-on varnishes too which are more reliable than Mod Podge. I've used Folk Art polyurethane varnishes for years, and I've recently been watching a lot of doll repaint videos, some of which recommend Liquitex matte varnish. These can be applied with a sponge or a brush. I use brushes and haven't noticed any brushstrokes - if any are visible, it's because of the paint, not the sealant. However, with the Folk Art varnish you have to be careful with air bubbles, and be careful not to go over the same spot twice if the sealant has already started drying or it will clump. I haven't used Liquitex so I'm not sure how it behaves.

Whichever products and tools you choose, it usually takes a bit of experimenting and some practising to get the results you want! The type and quality of paints, brushes and sealants make a difference but technique is also important and that only comes with practice.

[Kaeldre]

I think you should try to remove the layer of Mod Podge (carefully!) with water - acrylic paint isn't watersoluble once it's dried so you may be able to preserve the paint and reseal it with something better? I don't know if it will work, the paint may flake or rub off if too much pressure is applied.

If you choose a spray sealant, make sure to use a respiratory mask and spray them outdoors! There are some brush-on varnishes too which are more reliable than Mod Podge. I've used Folk Art polyurethane varnishes for years, and I've recently been watching a lot of doll repaint videos, some of which recommend Liquitex matte varnish. These can be applied with a sponge or a brush. I use brushes and haven't noticed any brushstrokes - if any are visible, it's because of the paint, not the sealant. However, with the Folk Art varnish you have to be careful with air bubbles, and be careful not to go over the same spot twice if the sealant has already started drying or it will clump. I haven't used Liquitex so I'm not sure how it behaves.

Whichever products and tools you choose, it usually takes a bit of experimenting and some practising to get the results you want! The type and quality of paints, brushes and sealants make a difference but technique is also important and that only comes with practice.

I don't mind if the paint gets messed up since I'm planning on re-doing my personal custom.

Thanks for the tips!  Would you happen to have any tips or tricks for fading out colors/seamless color transitions?

[tailrustedtealeaf]

I use makeup sponges for gradients. I picked it up from watching a ton of nail art videos.

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I didn't use the sponge on all the gradients (yellow to green was just messily done with a brush), but I think the orange to yellow and red to orange parts were done with a sponge.

[SunPony]

I think you should try to remove the layer of Mod Podge (carefully!) with water - acrylic paint isn't watersoluble once it's dried so you may be able to preserve the paint and reseal it with something better? I don't know if it will work, the paint may flake or rub off if too much pressure is applied.

If you choose a spray sealant, make sure to use a respiratory mask and spray them outdoors! There are some brush-on varnishes too which are more reliable than Mod Podge. I've used Folk Art polyurethane varnishes for years, and I've recently been watching a lot of doll repaint videos, some of which recommend Liquitex matte varnish. These can be applied with a sponge or a brush. I use brushes and haven't noticed any brushstrokes - if any are visible, it's because of the paint, not the sealant. However, with the Folk Art varnish you have to be careful with air bubbles, and be careful not to go over the same spot twice if the sealant has already started drying or it will clump. I haven't used Liquitex so I'm not sure how it behaves.

Whichever products and tools you choose, it usually takes a bit of experimenting and some practising to get the results you want! The type and quality of paints, brushes and sealants make a difference but technique is also important and that only comes with practice.

This was really useful to read, I'm also looking for a new brush-on sealant.  I had been using Vallejo matte resin varnish, but I recently had an issue with a rubbery feel developing on a pony after sealing it with that.  I'm not sure what caused it as I've used it without problem until now    I think I'll try the folk art kind you mentioned!

[Kaeldre]

Another question, possibly a silly one.  If I only paint a few parts of the pony and not the entire pony, would I still need to seal the whole thing?

[SunPony]

Another question, possibly a silly one.  If I only paint a few parts of the pony and not the entire pony, would I still need to seal the whole thing?

I'm not a complete expert but I think not.  I know I've seen customs where just the symbol and eyes were painted, and they were not sealed beyond those parts.  I have one I was gifted like that, and she's been fine for the 7 years I've had her.  If I did a pony with only a few parts painted, I would probably just seal over the painted parts.  Ah, I was reading somewhere that even sealing a FBR isn't strictly necessary...but I always do...someone tell me this is crazy!

[Mewtwofan1]

Regarding sealants, I’ve only ever worked on dolls, and I’ve only been doing it for a short time. I use mr. super clear uv cut on them. It seems to work well on giving tooth to the plastic so I can apply the pastels and pencils, and holds up on sealing the final product. Also, the UV cut has a formulation that will help protect the doll from the harmful rays of the sun.
     My complaints with it aren’t so much about the quality it delivers, more the struggle it was to get it and the fact that it’s toxic. I’m not sure on where you might find it, but I know I had to dig deep to find someone who sold it here for a reasonable (read: under 45 dollars, not including shipping) price. I eventually found someone, so there’s hope there.
     The other problem I have is the toxicity. I enjoy being able to breathe through my lungs. Inhaling this stuff will mess that up. While I do not know of the long term effects, I can assume based on the fact it is toxic, not poisonous, that it will eventually cause cancer and other problems.  Spray in a well ventilated area (like outside, making sure you aren’t downwind from the spray) and wear a mask that filters fumes and particles. It isn’t dangerous once it dries, just while it’s wet/airborne.
And once last con: this is weather sensitive. Assuming the humidity of that day isn’t above 70 percent, spray. If it’s too hot (30 Celsius for instance) do not spray. These weather conditions can affect the sealant and how it dries, sometimes making the hard work look ugly because it’s under a bad coat of sealant.

[Kaeldre]

For FBRs, should I use a primer/base?  I've been looking at white gesso, but I'm not sure if that's what I should be using.

[Griffin]

For FBRs, should I use a primer/base?  I've been looking at white gesso, but I'm not sure if that's what I should be using.

I use white gesso. You don't have to use a primer but I like the extra tooth it gives so I always recommend it.

[Kaeldre]

For FBRs, should I use a primer/base?  I've been looking at white gesso, but I'm not sure if that's what I should be using.

I use white gesso. You don't have to use a primer but I like the extra tooth it gives so I always recommend it.

Do you thin your gesso at all, or do you use it straight from the tube?